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Hammerhead · July 16, 2014, 01:09 AM

Also if you use wads, never push them down on to the powder. Just put them in the case mouth and let the bullet seat them.

My old silhouette (IHMSA field pistol) .357 load was a light charge of Clays, a .360" X .060" vegetable fiber wad and a LLA coated Hornady 140 grain 'cowboy' LFP. I could fire hundreds of rounds without cleaning if I needed to.

The wads and the LLA also reduce smoke to next to nothing.

The 140 flat points stay stable at much greater ranges than the HBWCs do with light charges.

I find the swaged lead bullets (Speer, Hornady, Magnus) more consistent and more accurate than cast at low velocities.

ETA. I still lube my carbine barrels with LLA, but have stopped lubing my revolver bores after realizing the LLA on the bullets was enough to prevent leading. I think it's more effective in the carbines.

July 16, 2014, 01:09 AM	#4
Hammerhead Senior Member Join Date: May 31, 2004 Location: Minnesota Posts: 2,432	Also if you use wads, never push them down on to the powder. Just put them in the case mouth and let the bullet seat them. My old silhouette (IHMSA field pistol) .357 load was a light charge of Clays, a .360" X .060" vegetable fiber wad and a LLA coated Hornady 140 grain 'cowboy' LFP. I could fire hundreds of rounds without cleaning if I needed to. The wads and the LLA also reduce smoke to next to nothing. The 140 flat points stay stable at much greater ranges than the HBWCs do with light charges. I find the swaged lead bullets (Speer, Hornady, Magnus) more consistent and more accurate than cast at low velocities. ETA. I still lube my carbine barrels with LLA, but have stopped lubing my revolver bores after realizing the LLA on the bullets was enough to prevent leading. I think it's more effective in the carbines. Last edited by Hammerhead; July 16, 2014 at 01:39 AM.