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Old April 26, 2013, 09:53 AM   #5
PetahW
Senior Member
 
Join Date: September 19, 2008
Posts: 4,678
I've long had better results with a modification of the above suggestions.

First, I learned long ago to never sand a stock, unless it was to a repaired area - because if you do, the grain will raise & cause a somewhat lumpy finsh, even if the surface is "dewhiskered".
I chemically strip a gunstock, if it's needed, using Formby's Furniture Refinisher (HomeCheapo), following the instructions on the can.

After overnite drying, I start the Tru-Oil at one end or the other of the stock, by dipping a fingertip into the oil for a dollop, then apply it to the wood in a circular & back/forth rubbing motion, at first only in a small area the size of a quarter (coin), but then expanding that same dollop of TO to an area the size of a dollar bill (max).
I rub the dollar bill sized area until the fingertip starts to drag or "squeak", then move to an adjacent area to start the same thing, etc - until the entire stock is covered by a single coat of rubbed-in TO.

I set the stock aside overnite between coats to air dry, then rubbing the TO down with a new pad off OOOO steel wool before starting the next coat of TO.

After as many coats as a particular stock needs to fill the wood pores and/or look good, the last coat of TO can be left as is for a shiney finish, or rubbed very lightly with a used OOOO steel wool pad for a satin finish.

After a week or so, I apply a coat of a good paste wax, like Johnson's.

I, for one, would like to see some pics of your project - how aboutit ?


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