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DD4lifeusmc · October 15, 2012, 12:33 PM

I would agree that 15 grains by volume would be a good starting point.
If you already have an adjustable powder volume measure you can use it.
I bought a separate flask for my 50 cal rifle and 44 cal revolvers.
Mine are traditional metal with a brass tube spout.
I measured the correct amount in my adjustable measure, then poured that into the spout.
Marked it for depth on side. Then emptied spout, removed it from flask and used a tubing cutter to remove excess.
Course I cut mine just below the maximum.
Now I turn flask upside down, place finger over end of spout, open the gate, let spout fill, close gate. turn right side up, remove finger, confirm powder level, pour into cylinder
or in case of the 50 cal, down the barrel.
However, in my 44's I make paper cartridges. Which save reload time when plinking or hunting.
It is not advisable to leave a BP gun loaded for extended periods of time. Our metals are better than 150 yr ago, but the BP is still somewhat corrsive, and can absorb moisture, causing hang fire or misfire. Not common but can.
I use the paper cartridge so the powder is protected from moisture better and insulated from the metal, so I leave mine loaded for a month or so till I go shoot.
If you are going to shoot immediately after reloading a wonder wad is not needed.
You can use nothing, or a small piece of tissue paper wadded on top of the powder.
Or plain crisco. But if you do, you need to shoot right away, as any lube in direct contact with the powder will render it inert in a short time.
If the ball is the correct size a small ring of lead will be sheared off during seating.
I use one size larger than smallest recommended. My 44 uses .451, .454, or in a pinch .457. When using ball I use the .454. Nice sheared ring, good tight fit.
The grease over the ball is a good safety for cross fires. But I've never had one in 40 years. Also it is a carry over from way back then, when some pistols weren't consistent on tolerances nor were the balls. So if they didn't fit tight when loaded could cross fire.
I shoot mostly all conical now. I pan dip the bullet to seal the rings.
I use my own mix,
3 tbs melted beeswax mixed with 1 to 1 1/2 tbs melted hog lard. Note measurement is made AFTER they are melted.
If you need a much softer lube for finger dipping, you can add more lard.
I try to stay with what the shooter back then realistically would have had access to.
If need be you can add some pure vegetable oil or olive oil to the mix.
I live in Wyoming. When I made my mix it was 85 degrees in kitchen. But when I went to shoot it was 60 degrees outside. I was satisfied with the mix. Others may not be.
I carry a small bottle of rubbing alcohol, cloth rag, patches and some q-tips. After a couple full reloads, if it feels stiff, I swab down with the alcohol. Relube the moving parts if need be and continue shooting.
Have fun with it.

October 15, 2012, 12:33 PM	#15
DD4lifeusmc Senior Member Join Date: October 12, 2012 Location: Wyoming Posts: 351	loading .36 Navy I would agree that 15 grains by volume would be a good starting point. If you already have an adjustable powder volume measure you can use it. I bought a separate flask for my 50 cal rifle and 44 cal revolvers. Mine are traditional metal with a brass tube spout. I measured the correct amount in my adjustable measure, then poured that into the spout. Marked it for depth on side. Then emptied spout, removed it from flask and used a tubing cutter to remove excess. Course I cut mine just below the maximum. Now I turn flask upside down, place finger over end of spout, open the gate, let spout fill, close gate. turn right side up, remove finger, confirm powder level, pour into cylinder or in case of the 50 cal, down the barrel. However, in my 44's I make paper cartridges. Which save reload time when plinking or hunting. It is not advisable to leave a BP gun loaded for extended periods of time. Our metals are better than 150 yr ago, but the BP is still somewhat corrsive, and can absorb moisture, causing hang fire or misfire. Not common but can. I use the paper cartridge so the powder is protected from moisture better and insulated from the metal, so I leave mine loaded for a month or so till I go shoot. If you are going to shoot immediately after reloading a wonder wad is not needed. You can use nothing, or a small piece of tissue paper wadded on top of the powder. Or plain crisco. But if you do, you need to shoot right away, as any lube in direct contact with the powder will render it inert in a short time. If the ball is the correct size a small ring of lead will be sheared off during seating. I use one size larger than smallest recommended. My 44 uses .451, .454, or in a pinch .457. When using ball I use the .454. Nice sheared ring, good tight fit. The grease over the ball is a good safety for cross fires. But I've never had one in 40 years. Also it is a carry over from way back then, when some pistols weren't consistent on tolerances nor were the balls. So if they didn't fit tight when loaded could cross fire. I shoot mostly all conical now. I pan dip the bullet to seal the rings. I use my own mix, 3 tbs melted beeswax mixed with 1 to 1 1/2 tbs melted hog lard. Note measurement is made AFTER they are melted. If you need a much softer lube for finger dipping, you can add more lard. I try to stay with what the shooter back then realistically would have had access to. If need be you can add some pure vegetable oil or olive oil to the mix. I live in Wyoming. When I made my mix it was 85 degrees in kitchen. But when I went to shoot it was 60 degrees outside. I was satisfied with the mix. Others may not be. I carry a small bottle of rubbing alcohol, cloth rag, patches and some q-tips. After a couple full reloads, if it feels stiff, I swab down with the alcohol. Relube the moving parts if need be and continue shooting. Have fun with it.