How you mount it depends entirely on the mounts. If you use the factory Tikka mounts you will need a hex wrench that fits the mounts. I think it is included, but cannot remember.
I would strongly recommend that you replace all 6 screws with better screws from a hardware store. It cost me $3 at Home Depot. I just took the mounts in with me to make sure they fit. The factory screws do not allow the wrench to get very deep into the opening and they are soft. Better screws make a huge difference. You'll run across a lot of folks who don't like the factory mounts, but they work just fine after replacing the screws.
Put the scope in the rings and snug it up, but not so much that you cannot move it. Get the crosshairs vertical and the eye relief where you want it then tighten it down.
Bore sight tools are a waste of money. Go to the range, place your rifle on a sandbag rest with the bolt removed. Set the crosshairs of the scope on the bullseye. I use 50 yards, but 25 might be better for a beginner. Without moving anything look through the bore and note how far and in which direction you are off. Adjust the scope until the crosshairs are on the bull and the bull is centered in the bore. Fire 1 shot. You will likely be within inches, and far closer than any tool will get you. Fine tune your scope and repeat.
These are the targets from the last 3 scopes I zeroed. This is the 1st and only shot at 50 yards after boresighting as described above. Shots #2-5 was at 100 yards. The rifles were all zeroed at 100 yards with 5 shots.
Trying to get perfectly zeroed at 25 or 50 yards is a waste of ammo. You only want to shoot enough to ensure you'll be on paper for your 1st shot at 100 yards. A perfectly zeroed rifle at 25 yards may be so high at 100 that it is off the paper. It would be OK if you are a couple of inches low at 25 before trying longer shots.
You shouldn't need a cheek pad unless the scope is too high or the stock isn't designed for scope shooting. Some scopes with huge front objectives have to be mounted very high for the scope to clear the barrel. In that case it might be needed, but for typical scopes in low or medium rings no.