Thread: 51 navy
View Single Post
Old April 23, 2014, 08:22 PM   #17
bedbugbilly
Senior Member
 
Join Date: November 19, 2009
Posts: 3,283
You don't state what make your 38 spl '51 Navy is . . . but I am assuming it is a replica of a Richards & Mason conversion? If your wedge screw has a "flat" on the head, it is probably designed to be turned so the flat is parallel to the wedge at the time of disassembly. Once reassembled, the screw is rotated so that the lip of the screw retains the wedge in place. This design was used on many of the Colt 1872 "open tops" - Colt's last "open top" model that was made for cartridges just before the 1873 Models came out. It is possible that your repro is made this way although if it was an original, it would have the standard wedge screw. The 1872s were designed this way to properly position the wedge, keep it from falling out and insuring that the proper cylinder gap was maintained. In essence, your '51 is the forerunner of the 1872. The 1851 Navy model was made up until 1872 and a number of them were conversions like yours.

The wedge on yours, being designed that way or not, does not insure that it will always return to the exact position when reassembled and thus, you are seeing a difference in your cylinder gap - sometimes too tight and your cylinder is rubbing against the end of the barrel.

Originally, these conversions like yours, were designed to be used with the 38 Colt Short cartridge - black powder of course. The repros are made to shoot modern 38 special but you also have to realize that the 38 spl has more "oomph" than a 38 Colt Short would have. I am planning on getting a 1872 Colt Open Top which is built to shoot black and smokeless 38 Colt Long / 38 Spl. but I am going to be reloading 38 Colt Short & 38 Colt Long - BP and Smokeless to use in it. That doesn't mean there is anything wrong in shooting 38 spl. in yours.

Try what has been suggested. You might try carefully "stoning" the surface of your wedge to make sure it is fitted well. Try polishing it and then using some layout dye on it and see where it is rubbing on the cylinder pin slot - that should tell you if it is fitting the slot well or only contacting in a very small area. You should be able to get it fitted so that it stays in place better. Your cylinder gap shouldn't be more than .012 or so, preferable smaller. The larger the cylinder gap, the more "pressure" you will loose as the bullet leaves the chamber and enters the forcing cone.

I know that ASM made '51 R & M conversions - Uberti is presently making them as well. If you can't get the present wedge fitted so that it stays tight, you might want to try another one. They are available from a variety of suppliers - Dixie, Lodgewood, etc. Just as a side note - although the 1872 "open top" was designed to have the wedge with the screw with a flat, I have seen several originals that had the "old style" wedge as in the '51s, 6'60s, etc. These pistols ware made at the end of the production years of the '51 Navies, etc. and a lot of "surplus parts on hand" were utilized. The early 1872s had the Navy size frame and as time went on, Army frames were also utilized. The 1872 was chambered in the .44 Henry cartridge. The '51 R & M conversions like yours obviously utilized the Navy caliber and because of the bore size, the 38 Colt Long was utilized with them.

As far as you POI - remember that you are sighting with your hammer and the front sight post. The barrel should mount square to the frame but if you are having issues with the wedge loosening, etc. - that can throw your POI off. Like any SA, you sometimes have to use a little "Kentucky windage" in your aim. There is a chart as Doc mentioned - i don't have the link to it but it will tell you what you are doing wrong depending on where your POI is at. I have only seen it used in reference to more modern, solid frame revolver/pistols - a lot has to do with your grip. Are you using a single handed "duelist' grip or a two handed grip? Neither is wrong but traditionally, a single handed grip was used with these old SA revolvers. The key to anything is "consistency" and you don't want to change more than one thing at a time. First, I would suggest you get your wedge problem solved so that you don't have problems with it loosening up - might be "easier sad than done" I know but I have a feeling that if you get that solved, things will be more consistent. Once done, then you can work on your POI.

I don't know if you reload or not but even a change in makes of 38 spl. cartridges - i.e. powder charge/powder type and bullet weight can throw things off. I shoot a S & W M & P (made in 1952) with a 5" barrel quite a bit. My reloads are consistent as everything is the same - I switch to off the shelf target loads of unknown factors and it can throw things off quite a bit.

Don't get frustrated with it as you'll get it figured out. Those conversions like you have can be a lot of fun to shoot. Good luck and let us know how it works out - we all can learn from it!
__________________
If a pair of '51 Navies were good enough for Billy Hickok, then a single Navy on my right hip is good enough for me . . . besides . . . I'm probably only half as good as he was anyways. Hiram's Rangers Badge #63
bedbugbilly is offline  
 
Page generated in 0.03815 seconds with 8 queries