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5) Using aerosol CLP (or other spray cleaner) spray out the trigger group and FCG areas
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FWIW there are two basic schools of thought re: trigger groups and hard-to-reach places.
- Flush with CLP frequently to keep things lubricated, the fresh oil will move the dirt out of the moving parts
- Oil sparingly and infrequently, you can never really dry out all of the nooks and crannies with a rag, adding more oil will just cause more dirt to accumulate in those places and gum things up
I'm in the latter camp. I don't like continually cleaning to remove oily gunk. I've never had a trigger malfunction on me due to lack of oil. YMMV.
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As far as aerosol degreasers... non-chlorinated break cleaner works well and is cheap...
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I feel that two mandatory warnings are in order whenever brake cleaner is brought up.
- Do not confuse the non-chlorinated product with "regular" brake cleaner or carburetor cleaner. The latter two are a good deal harsher and may strip gun finishes.
- My oft-repeated advice about brake cleaner goes like this: its greatest strength is that it will strip every last trace of grease and oil from metal, but when you're cleaning a gun, this can also be its greatest drawback. It is absolutely essential to re-oil any unfinished, blued, or parkerized / phosphate finished surface after using brake cleaner on it; otherwise, the part will be left with little or no corrosion protection.
Although the SIG P2022 in question probably doesn't incorporate many parts like this, I still think it's an important warning. FWIW I rarely use the stuff; I only get it out to clear truly epic accumulations of gunk, usually on a gun I just purchased, because I never let mine get that dirty. 