The Firing Line Forums - View Single Post - What powder for 30-30 and .270 Win?

Southla1 · April 6, 2000, 04:08 PM

Moose one other thing when you get your reloading manuals get some new ones pinted in the last few years. I have some older ones I bought in the early 60's (telling my age

) and while they were fine and all my fingers (and guns) are still intact some of the loads that were listed back then are well over the maximum listed in todays manuals, in some cases by 2 grains or more. I realize a lot of this is caused by lawyers input and a lawsuit crazy country, but it is good to know. ALWAYS start either at the lowest listed load or at least 15% below the highest listed load and work up from there constantly watching for pressure signs, miking case dimensions, watching primers etc. Also a chronograph would be very valuable(they cost less than a good powder scale or measure today). If a load way below the listed maximum is giving velocities at or near maximum velocity and the case or primer shows the LEAST bit of pressure signs STOP do not increase anymore!! You may have a tight chamber, short freebore, harder bullet jacket material, or a longer bearing surface which is causing increased pressure. One other thing DO NOT go below the lowest listed charge either. It's highly unlikely but sometimes it seems that light charges of certain IMR powders may detonate in the case instead of burn turning your rifle into a hand held hand grenade! We are not trying to scare you or discourage you from reloading its a truly rewarding hobby, but do use care and glean all the information that you can before you start. If you have any questions what so ever either ask them in this forum or please feel free to E-mail me at any time, Above all ENJOY!!!

------------------
Carlyle

[This message has been edited by Southla1 (edited April 06, 2000).]

April 6, 2000, 04:08 PM	#4
Southla1 Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 19, 2000 Location: Jeanerette, La. Near the Posts: 1,999	Moose one other thing when you get your reloading manuals get some new ones pinted in the last few years. I have some older ones I bought in the early 60's (telling my age ) and while they were fine and all my fingers (and guns) are still intact some of the loads that were listed back then are well over the maximum listed in todays manuals, in some cases by 2 grains or more. I realize a lot of this is caused by lawyers input and a lawsuit crazy country, but it is good to know. ALWAYS start either at the lowest listed load or at least 15% below the highest listed load and work up from there constantly watching for pressure signs, miking case dimensions, watching primers etc. Also a chronograph would be very valuable(they cost less than a good powder scale or measure today). If a load way below the listed maximum is giving velocities at or near maximum velocity and the case or primer shows the LEAST bit of pressure signs STOP do not increase anymore!! You may have a tight chamber, short freebore, harder bullet jacket material, or a longer bearing surface which is causing increased pressure. One other thing DO NOT go below the lowest listed charge either. It's highly unlikely but sometimes it seems that light charges of certain IMR powders may detonate in the case instead of burn turning your rifle into a hand held hand grenade! We are not trying to scare you or discourage you from reloading its a truly rewarding hobby, but do use care and glean all the information that you can before you start. If you have any questions what so ever either ask them in this forum or please feel free to E-mail me at any time, Above all ENJOY!!! ------------------ Carlyle [This message has been edited by Southla1 (edited April 06, 2000).]