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grisbald · May 21, 2012, 10:11 PM

Tonight I was full length sizing some .243 Winchester Brass. First time I've done this caliber (have reloaded .223 and 7mm-08, along with pistols for almost a year). I noticed that when I first starting with the .243, I would get some resistance on the down and up stroke. I was using Imperial Dry Neck Lube and Imperial Wax for the cases. Well, on an upstroke, I was getting some resistance and the decapping pin/mandrel, came out. Loosened the decapping nut, retightened, and was able to get it out of the case. Went back to my old way and used rcbs lube with the brush, and things went much smoother.

My question, before I resize a bunch of cases, is how critical is resitting that pin? It's about a hair or so above the nut (pamphlet says keep it flush). I looked at my other dies and they all look pretty much the same. Is it real critical to get it exactly right?

May 21, 2012, 10:11 PM	#1
grisbald Member Join Date: October 23, 2011 Posts: 75	Question about decapping pin Tonight I was full length sizing some .243 Winchester Brass. First time I've done this caliber (have reloaded .223 and 7mm-08, along with pistols for almost a year). I noticed that when I first starting with the .243, I would get some resistance on the down and up stroke. I was using Imperial Dry Neck Lube and Imperial Wax for the cases. Well, on an upstroke, I was getting some resistance and the decapping pin/mandrel, came out. Loosened the decapping nut, retightened, and was able to get it out of the case. Went back to my old way and used rcbs lube with the brush, and things went much smoother. My question, before I resize a bunch of cases, is how critical is resitting that pin? It's about a hair or so above the nut (pamphlet says keep it flush). I looked at my other dies and they all look pretty much the same. Is it real critical to get it exactly right?