The Firing Line Forums - View Single Post - Legal and technical requirements for DIY silencer?

RAnb · October 17, 2010, 02:06 PM

I tried to make my first baffles from stainless sheet metal by forming it between two dies. But I was not able to get the deep 60 degree cone I wanted. The metal kept on tearing. There are others on SilencerTalk that have made them from sheet metal. I have not tried aluminum.

My finishes consist of bare aluminum that is sanded on the lathe or bead blasted. This finish is easy and covers up some blemishes. My first welded steel cans I ground down the bead then trimmed on the lathe to make them flush. If I had a TIG welder (or was any good at welding) I would leave the bead in place.

I painted the first few steel cans with rustoleum, it is harder than wood stove paint and I felt that bubbling paint would be a good indicator for the shooter to back off on the rate of fire a bit. My last 22lr and 223 rem cans were made with a smoother 4130 steel finish, so I blued them and think they came out rather nice; compared to the others anyway.

I clean the metal with hot soapy water then an alcohol rag before painting or bluing. It seems to work well.

Ranb

October 17, 2010, 02:06 PM	#15
RAnb Junior member Join Date: July 20, 2008 Location: WA, USA Posts: 447	I tried to make my first baffles from stainless sheet metal by forming it between two dies. But I was not able to get the deep 60 degree cone I wanted. The metal kept on tearing. There are others on SilencerTalk that have made them from sheet metal. I have not tried aluminum. My finishes consist of bare aluminum that is sanded on the lathe or bead blasted. This finish is easy and covers up some blemishes. My first welded steel cans I ground down the bead then trimmed on the lathe to make them flush. If I had a TIG welder (or was any good at welding) I would leave the bead in place. I painted the first few steel cans with rustoleum, it is harder than wood stove paint and I felt that bubbling paint would be a good indicator for the shooter to back off on the rate of fire a bit. My last 22lr and 223 rem cans were made with a smoother 4130 steel finish, so I blued them and think they came out rather nice; compared to the others anyway. I clean the metal with hot soapy water then an alcohol rag before painting or bluing. It seems to work well. Ranb