The Firing Line Forums - View Single Post - New member`s 1st post-Civil war revolvers

faraway · August 7, 2002, 07:24 PM

Yes, the cylinder wedge should be a fairly good fit. If the spring of the wedge is weak, or the wedge worn, than the whole barrel assembly moves a little when fired. At those times, than the two holes- pins down at the bottom of the barrel assembly while start to oval out. Tends to be a problem on the cheaper replicas. And on the Colt Dragoons, yes on the lesser quality guns, the wedges are too soft and tend to deform. Doesn't seem to be a problem on the Colt's or the Uberti's, as these are well made (and sometimes the same gun). Actually, the power/durability issue is why the Dragoon was (is) essentially a downgraded Walker. The Walker's took a slightly heavier charge, and on the 19th century guns...Colt's subcontractor had some QC problems. As for taking the wedge loose, use a plastic or leather mallet, it'll keep it prettier. In the old days, the wedges seem to have taken a bit of a beating (from the look of some surviving guns). Usually a tight fitting wedge was knocked clear with a saddle horn, knife handle etc. It seems to have been a fairly common practice to tap it out with the edge of the reload cylinder...wouldn't be in any hurry to do that one. All this stated, in most original uses, probably the only time these wedges were knocked lose was for cleaning. Many didn't seem to have extra cylinders...and some prefered to have 1+2 extra guns about if they had the means to get them. (although for some these cleanings were pretty frequent, needed to keep it in good order-and actually in some of the bigger western cities, there were people who made money carefully cleaning and loading these guns-especially the pocket stuff) And last, on the Dragoons, these seem to do well with rifle powder, since that's a bit harder to light, put a few grains in the cones...not very much or the cones will blow or cap fragments will be everywhere.

August 7, 2002, 07:24 PM	#34
faraway Senior Member Join Date: September 21, 2001 Location: ne montana Posts: 437	Yes, the cylinder wedge should be a fairly good fit. If the spring of the wedge is weak, or the wedge worn, than the whole barrel assembly moves a little when fired. At those times, than the two holes- pins down at the bottom of the barrel assembly while start to oval out. Tends to be a problem on the cheaper replicas. And on the Colt Dragoons, yes on the lesser quality guns, the wedges are too soft and tend to deform. Doesn't seem to be a problem on the Colt's or the Uberti's, as these are well made (and sometimes the same gun). Actually, the power/durability issue is why the Dragoon was (is) essentially a downgraded Walker. The Walker's took a slightly heavier charge, and on the 19th century guns...Colt's subcontractor had some QC problems. As for taking the wedge loose, use a plastic or leather mallet, it'll keep it prettier. In the old days, the wedges seem to have taken a bit of a beating (from the look of some surviving guns). Usually a tight fitting wedge was knocked clear with a saddle horn, knife handle etc. It seems to have been a fairly common practice to tap it out with the edge of the reload cylinder...wouldn't be in any hurry to do that one. All this stated, in most original uses, probably the only time these wedges were knocked lose was for cleaning. Many didn't seem to have extra cylinders...and some prefered to have 1+2 extra guns about if they had the means to get them. (although for some these cleanings were pretty frequent, needed to keep it in good order-and actually in some of the bigger western cities, there were people who made money carefully cleaning and loading these guns-especially the pocket stuff) And last, on the Dragoons, these seem to do well with rifle powder, since that's a bit harder to light, put a few grains in the cones...not very much or the cones will blow or cap fragments will be everywhere.