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The sabot you use has more to do with whether or not you can shoot over 100 grains of anything. If your sabot doesn't have enough stiffy in it, then it's not going to give you the accuracy you want.
I have found that most sabots (not all, but most) will start breaking apart at about 120 grains, and will lose every petal by 130 grains resulting in very wide groups. I recommend 100 grains, and practice if you are going to be shooting 200 yards. It's not as easy as some would think. There is still enough juice left on the round at that range to get the job done, and the trajectory will become easier to judge with practice. The trajectory difference isn't enough to put up with the extra re-coil to me.
As far as a crude ring goes, I have found that at the range, if you will break the breech plug loose after the first couple of shots, you can shoot for quite a while before the crude ring will re-seize. You don't have to take it out, just break it loose, and for some reason it doesn't build back as quick.
I am like Doyle with his procedure and cleaning out between shots, as the shot you will take at a deer will be over a clean bore, it should be the one you sight in with. If you are using 777 or Black powder take a bottle of windex with you to the range and use it to clean between shots. It will take out the residue from your shot, and it dries very quickly. You don't need a solvent for 777 or Black Powder as both of them are easily cleaned out with water.
Just my thoughts
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