Thanks for the positive feed back!
Rifleer-
rust blueing is an old process for adding color to metal often used on high end double barrel shotguns. Unlike hot blueing you do not need expensive tanks, solvents and chemicals, and unlike cold blueing it is more durable and gives a more consistent finish.
what you need is the rust blueing chemical (I used brownells "classic rust blue"
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=2...SSIC_RUST_BLUE)
a carding brush (I used brownells
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=2..._CARDING_BRUSH)
and some sort of tank to boil the parts between applications of the rusting agent. (for that i took a length of house gutter and put two end caps with high temp epoxy) many people from what i have read used or made some sort of stainless steel tank.
The process is tedious but well worth the effort.
all parts that you want to blue need to be stripped of their finish, I used a wire wheel on a bench grinder, along with sandpaper up to 300 grit. the higher polish the parts have the glossier the parts will look when you are finished. However, the rust needs to grip the metal so too high a polish will not work as well.
After all parts have been cleaned of their original finish a thorough degreasing is required. When you think the parts are completely degreased, degrease them again, and again and again. Always wear gloves because not only are the chemicals used to degrease potentially dangerous (acetone, denatured alcohol) but the slightest bit of oil from your skin can ruin the finish.
When you are certain the parts are clean you can begin applying the rusting agent, follow the directions, which will include applying the agent, giving time to allow rust to happen (depending on climate this may take from 3 hours to 24 hours) boiling the parts which turns the red rust into black oxide, then carding the parts, cleaning off the black powder and repeating the process until you are satisfied with the darkness of the finish.
If you decide to try this and have any questions along the way feel free to pm me.