[Unclenick]

I've not noticed that its necessary. Take the depth probe on your caliper (or used a depth mic if you have one) to see how uniform the bottom depths are. The ones I have are all within a thousandth, so I don't bother. Nor do any of mine have visible flash hole burrs, though there was at least one lot about ten years back that did and a lot of complaints got that fixed. Anyway, it's not a "shouldn't" so much as a matter of "why bother". But getting the profile radiused always helps with mine.

If you look closely at the Tula primers, you'll see the top edges of the cups have grinding marks that all run in one directions from trimming the height of the cups. Feel for any kind of burr on one side of the ends of those marks. If you find one you can take a very fine file or a flat hone and strike it off without affecting the length or touching the anvil feet. It's rather a lot of bother, but if you try it with a few and find it makes a difference in seating force, then that's your issue. Burrs. I would call TulAmmo to let them know, in that instance.

In the 1980's, CCI primers were always noticeably harder to seat than others, and burrs turned out to be the main cause. The fact some of their cups were a little thicker than some other brands was a secondary factor. They revamped their line to get rid of the burr part of the problem at one point, and they seat more easily now, regardless of cup thickness.