The Firing Line Forums - View Single Post

yankytrash · June 22, 2002, 11:14 PM

As you can see from Gewehr98's rifle, your biggest battle is going to be the end grain of each layer of laminate, which will soak in more stain.

There's a few things you can do.

Number one, you may just want to go with it. A properly finished laminate stock is a real head turner, and really doesn't need any graining or striping. Strip and finish as you normally would, paying close attention to getting out all those harsh milling and heavy sanding marks that are so common to laminate pieces.

Or, you can to fight it. Strip as normal. Wet the wood, let it dry, hand sand with 120. Wet the wood, let it dry, hand sand with 180. Wet it again, let it dry, hand sand with 220. Continue on, working your way down to the autobody work grits - like 800. That will help fill in the mopre porous spots in the wood, like the end grain. Then, apply one or two coats of sanding sealer, rubbing out in between coats.

Next you'll need to dye the wood. Dyes are available at the better paint supply stores, usually by special order. Pick a light tan dye if you want to end up walnut. I'd sayyyyy, ohhh, ponderosa? Well, you'll see a color chart, just pick a light one, in a natural tan tone.

Apply the dye with a rag, in a very light coat. Wet sand with 220, and rub off immediately. While it's still damp with the dye, repeat, only with a heavier coat this time. Really rub it in with the 220. Let it set into the wood a little longer this time, giving it time to soak in. Repeat this procedure as many times as you like, until you have a fairly uniform color.

Now you can stain. Use a quality stain, without the new junk they put in them nowadays for Harry Homeowner. Real stain - no urethanes, no gel. Stain much in the same way as you dyed the piece - rubbing it in well with the 220. Keep recoating until you get the desired color, keeping mind it will redden up when you apply the topcoats. If it's not going weel, and not getting as even as you want, stop after about 4 stainings and let it sit overnight to dry. Repeat the staining process the next day, and it should even out a little for ya.

Apply topcoat of your choice. I prefer uncut tung oil for stocks. Uncut tung oil is thick as molasses, and provides a very tough coat without making it shiney as glass. You'll know the cut tung oil - it's like friggin water, and is pretty worthless for much of anything than chair seats. 7 coats or so should do it - just rub it on, rub it off, rub it on, rub it off, etc. A very professional looking top coat, in my opinion, and very weather resistant.

The look will be like a deep walnut, with a crazy subtle underlying grain - that's the laminates. From a distance, the endgraining of the laminates will unnoticeable. Close on, the stock will have a shocking look to it, and people will be asking you to finish their stocks the same way. Do give up the secret!!

The trick's in the wood dye.

June 22, 2002, 11:14 PM	#4
yankytrash Senior Member Join Date: April 17, 2001 Location: Farnham, Va Posts: 2,183	As you can see from Gewehr98's rifle, your biggest battle is going to be the end grain of each layer of laminate, which will soak in more stain. There's a few things you can do. Number one, you may just want to go with it. A properly finished laminate stock is a real head turner, and really doesn't need any graining or striping. Strip and finish as you normally would, paying close attention to getting out all those harsh milling and heavy sanding marks that are so common to laminate pieces. Or, you can to fight it. Strip as normal. Wet the wood, let it dry, hand sand with 120. Wet the wood, let it dry, hand sand with 180. Wet it again, let it dry, hand sand with 220. Continue on, working your way down to the autobody work grits - like 800. That will help fill in the mopre porous spots in the wood, like the end grain. Then, apply one or two coats of sanding sealer, rubbing out in between coats. Next you'll need to dye the wood. Dyes are available at the better paint supply stores, usually by special order. Pick a light tan dye if you want to end up walnut. I'd sayyyyy, ohhh, ponderosa? Well, you'll see a color chart, just pick a light one, in a natural tan tone. Apply the dye with a rag, in a very light coat. Wet sand with 220, and rub off immediately. While it's still damp with the dye, repeat, only with a heavier coat this time. Really rub it in with the 220. Let it set into the wood a little longer this time, giving it time to soak in. Repeat this procedure as many times as you like, until you have a fairly uniform color. Now you can stain. Use a quality stain, without the new junk they put in them nowadays for Harry Homeowner. Real stain - no urethanes, no gel. Stain much in the same way as you dyed the piece - rubbing it in well with the 220. Keep recoating until you get the desired color, keeping mind it will redden up when you apply the topcoats. If it's not going weel, and not getting as even as you want, stop after about 4 stainings and let it sit overnight to dry. Repeat the staining process the next day, and it should even out a little for ya. Apply topcoat of your choice. I prefer uncut tung oil for stocks. Uncut tung oil is thick as molasses, and provides a very tough coat without making it shiney as glass. You'll know the cut tung oil - it's like friggin water, and is pretty worthless for much of anything than chair seats. 7 coats or so should do it - just rub it on, rub it off, rub it on, rub it off, etc. A very professional looking top coat, in my opinion, and very weather resistant. The look will be like a deep walnut, with a crazy subtle underlying grain - that's the laminates. From a distance, the endgraining of the laminates will unnoticeable. Close on, the stock will have a shocking look to it, and people will be asking you to finish their stocks the same way. Do give up the secret!! The trick's in the wood dye. __________________ Right turn, Clyde.