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Old December 27, 2008, 09:46 PM   #22
HiBC
Senior Member
 
Join Date: November 13, 2006
Posts: 8,276
Some time ago ,here on TFL,a gentleman showed some of his work glasbedding.He also had a long box full of what appeared to be crushed walnut hulls he snuggled the rifle down into.That guy knows how!! I don't know who it was.
The forend shim has been a bit confusing as it is more accurately called a "forend pressure point" bedding.Another way to accomplish it is to put the rear portion of the stock in a padded vise.hang a 3 or 5 lb weight from the forward sling swivel stud.Put a little release on the barrel,and a spot of your favorite goo at the forend forward end.Install action and torque the screws.When the resin is hard,you will have tension.


In any case

Do not torque the rear guard screw first.Go in stages,with the front guard screw torqued before the rear one.

Be sure the guard screws do not contact the stock.

Frankly,without knowing your skills,and I mean no disrespect,if you are confused by the terminology as we discuss this issue,you may need to find an experienced mentor,or just pay a good smith to get it done.

Having said that,In a series of well planned stages,I might carefully set the action up for a pillar bed job first,then remove material all around the magazine and guard,and glass the guard Then I would probably mill and grindmaterial out all around the receiver,recoil lug,etc,and glass the receiverwith it resting on the pillar bed I just did.I might put one thickness of magic clear tape on most of the action,except for the primary bedding areas at the lug and tang and pillars.

Then I might take it apart,grind or mill the barrel channel out maybe 1/16 of an inch all the way around.I'd put 2 or 3 layers of wide electricials tape carefully on the barrel and install it.I would then run something thicker than a dollar bill,maybe a piece of flannel between the bbl and stock to see that I had clearance all around the tape.Then,I would take it apart,and lay the glass in the forend.

But,everybody does it different.Sometimes an ultralight foamcore and kevlar stock,sometimes wood.

Do you know the old school black or horn forend tips weren't just decoration?They were to seal the end grain from wicking water ito the wood of the forend.

With changing moisture content,and some stocks whose grain structure is unstable,wood can be troublesome in a forend.Free float and glass solve the problem.

If the torquing of guard screws has caused any crush at the tang or front lug,or if in any other way the reciever is being stressed as the guard screws are tightened,the rifle won't shoot so well.Pillars are good.They don't crush.

The top edge of the mag box should show no gap at the reciever,but should bot bear tight.I use 1 thickness tape clearance when I glass the mag box and guard.

If you have an aluminum floorplate/guard,please do not pull it out of the stock by the trigger guard bow.You may hear a discouraging snap as it breaks right at the hole for the hinged floorplate pin.

I am not trying to discourage you too much.There is a lot to a complete action bed and freefloat job .
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