A few thoughts related to Brian's post, all of which are good points.
If you use a trigger release it becomes second nature hooking up to your D loop on the string. Honestly I can't even remember hooking up before any deer I shot, as anything is, practice enough and its second nature.
Also, Brian is correct on Mathews, the ones that I know of are not adjustable, the cam design dictates the length. This really is no big deal though as any dealer that works on them generally has cams and they'll swap them for you in exchange for your old one. This is pretty typical of any bow manufacture. I do have an old Hoyt though that has a pivoting draw module you can adjust without even breaking the bow down in a press... Great idea, not sure why they decided to stray from it.
Draw lengths can also be tweaked slightly by putting more less twist in the cable/ string, but this should only be considered for small tweaks, not for going up and down 1/2". Changing the twist if not done correctly can mess up timing, even on single cams.
That said buying a fixed draw length bow is really of no worry.
Also, as Brian eluded don't let these hunting shows tell you what broadheads to use. Do some research online and make that decision yourself. These hunting shows are getting free products to make the endorsements, of course they're going to pump their fist for that brand.
Slick Tricks are some great heads, hands down the sharpest blades I've ever seen. The key in getting broadheads to fly is properly tuning your bow. Paper tuning is a great place to start, basically you shoot through paper and the resulting hole pattern will tell you what tweaks to make.
I highly recommend reading this tuning guide. This guide lays it all out in easy to understand terminology. I would start by paper tuning, a good paper tune will usually get you shooting broadheads pretty good. I've also done bare shaft tuning when I still had some flight issues. I could go on and on about tuning, but best thing to do is read up first and ask questions of you have any.