Shame that was that way, and I wonder why someone would have cut it down that thin? Well they're not that thick anyhow, but maybe they thought it would cut down on trigger pull as the rebound lever is raised while cocking? If they ground this, they may have gotten it hot while doing so, and took the temper out of the thin spring portion.
If the spring you added was to try to come loose from behind it later on, you can always solder it to the back of it, just clean and flux it good, as lead/tin solder flows well below the temperature that would hurt anything. Something this small could be soldered with a common soldering iron. As long as it works, and keeps the lock cam pushed over onto the cam surface on the rebound lever, it will work.
I forgot to add, that the bottom of the cylinder bolt cam, and the top of the mating cam on the rebound lever, should be pretty flat, with no angle that would cause a sideways motion of the rear of the cylinder bolt. It should stay on top shelf until the rebound lever gets high enough, that the cyl. bolt cam falls off the front edge, similar to a sear engagement. With a weak spring tension, any angle other that 90 degrees, toward the outside, could cause the cyl. bolt end to move to the side and drop off.
Last edited by Dixie Gunsmithing; June 26, 2013 at 12:00 AM.