Whoa! Mebbe you should re-examine your methods. Reread your ABCs of Reloading and/or your Lyman's 49th on reloading for a semi-auto. Adjust your sizing/decapping die as per the factory instructions. With properly adjusted dies the slight difference in case wall thickness shouldn't be a problem (a bad die from any major manufacturer is rare). Check the round after each step. Size/decap and measure the case. Prime the case (make sure the primer is completely seated, any primer protruding above the case head will cause variations in OAL and may be dangerous). Flare the case mouth and check; just enough for the bullet to start (also mic the bullets so you'll know what you're working with). Charge the case and visually check the powder (make sure some is in there). Seat the bullet to your predetermined OAL (checking with your calipers). Run the cartridge into a taper crimp die (you're not going to crimp it, just remove any flare you put in the case mouth, neck tension from a properly adjusted sizing/decapping die will have enough neck tension to hold the bullet in place). Visually check the "crimp" to make sure the flare is gone. Check the loaded round in the barrel of your gun (thunk test). You may have to make adjustments for bullet seating 'cause of different ogives, and perhaps adjust the crimp die to remove all flare. If the round doesn't enter the chamber all the way, mark the bullet and case with a magic marker and see if the bullet is hiting the rifling or the case is touching a part of the chamber. Actually putting a crimp in a small case like the .32 can cause a buldge in the case walls.
Not much more than that.
My Anchor is holding fast!
Last edited by mikld; February 16, 2013 at 12:15 PM.