Please keep in mind that the .32 Auto is designed to be used with a TAPER crimp, and not a roll crimp. A taper crimp is not intended to hold the bullet in place. The purpose of a proper taper crimp is to minimally re-form the brass to acceptable dimensions after you've seated the bullet - removing the flare you imparted earlier. And if you attempt to impart TOO much taper crimp, you can actually reduce your grip on that bullet.
My recommendation is:
--ensure that you are fully resizing the brass with the proper die
--use the absolute least amount of mouth flare that you can
(if you can seat a bullet without stripping any jacket material, then don't flare ANY more than that)
--experiment with LESS "crimp" with your bullet seating die and use the barrel of your pistol as a drop-in "chamber gauge" to ensure the loaded round will "plunk" in nicely and also fall out easily under it's own weight when the barrel is inverted.
To use LESS crimp, simply screw the seating die OUT of the press a few turns and screw the bullet seater stem back in an equal number of turns. This will seat the bullet to the same place, but leave the crimp OUT of operation for now. If the COAL of the round is correct, now see if you have case mouth tension. If yes, take that round and give it the "plunk" test with your barrel. If it hangs up going in or out, you will need to give it a little taper crimp... but give it as little as you can a bit at a time until you see results.
The best way to do this is with UNPRIMED brass with NO POWDER CHARGE. This is why you have a kinetic (inertia) (hammer-type) bullet puller, to reclaim these components after we've done the work.
Across different calibers with different bullets (from different manufacturers) but more so...with particular head stamps, I have found some occasions where it's DAMN difficult to get the amount of case mouth tension you absolutely need.
Head stamps do matter when trying to get a handle on a problem like this. If you are using a scattered handful of 12 different, don't be shocked when you have a half dozen different results. My experience has taught me that this is FACT, regardless of what anyone else might offer.
Make no mistake: this is a problem that MUST be addressed. If you don't have proper, secure case mouth tension on a loaded semi-auto round, you are setting yourself up for possible disaster as the pressure rises when the bullet is inadvertently pushed further in to the case.
Attention Brass rats and other reloaders: I really need .327 Federal Magnum brass, no lot size too small. Tell me what caliber you need and I'll see what I have to swap. PM me and we'll discuss.