I've replaced too many firing pins to believe that dry firing is a good practice with any fire arm.
On a Ruger rimfire revolver with separate frame mounted pin I found the pin stuck fast in the forward position. The metal of the frame had been beaten down enough to upset the metal tightening the hole.
This Ruger also showed signs of having been fanned with the hammer dropping between chambers.
A small round jewelers file was used to open the hole in the frame slightly, then due to the pin being battered and shortened by impact between chambers I made a new pin. Works fine now.
Broken firing pins are rare, but they would not make replacement pins if they weren't needed every now and then.
On a .22 rimfire pocket pistol with hammer mounted pin I found all chamberes deformed enough by pin strikes that no cartridge could be put in a chamber. Out came the jewelers files again, this time a slightly larger half round.
Snap away if you like, but the hammer or striker fall is meant to be cushioned by impact on the primer cup, not a steel to steel impact.
Awhile back a European shooter posted photos of a primer blow out with his newly purchased SMLE rifle. Even the manuals allowed dry firing but after many decades of abuse by generations of cadets the pin hole edges can turn up and the shaft become cracked or weakened at the collar. A slight bend in the pin can rub the pin against the side of the hole with the pin becoming sharper, I've seen this on a 95 Mauser.
Anyway, his primer blew out with a nice cookie cutter hole that poured gas straight into the firing pin hole, far more high pressure gas than the relief hole in the bolt head could handle. The firing pin was forced back, the weakened collar let go, and the cocking piece slammed him in the face near his shooting eye.
When Military weapons are in service they are inspected on a regular basis, and if theres any sign of undue wear parts are replaced.
Since Uncle Sugar is not going to pay for my search for a new firing pin, I think I'll continue to baby my pistols.