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Old January 21, 2013, 12:06 PM   #10
xtriggerman
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Join Date: January 4, 2012
Posts: 23
I used to sell 94's as a dealer & did the triggers on a number of them. There are 2 versions of 94. the first had a firing pin that hit the bottom of the rim and the second version FP hit the top of the rim. The second version is more capable of reducing the trigger pull. Also, the reson these triggers are sprung so heavy is the factory tolerances embrace alot of cratridge movement foward n back, partly due to too much headspace and cylinder walk to and fro on the crane. You dont need much cartridge movement to make a strong pin hit into a lazy hit. Due to the above mentioned, I ALLWAYS start at the trigger rebound spring. but you need a trigger pull gauge to measure your progress. I trim that spring untill you have no less than .5 lb rebound pressure off a factory hammer spring. Once the trigger is rebounding at that rate, AND there is not excesive head space movement, take 1/2 coil off the hammer spring, put the cut end up and fire 9 rounds. compare all the 9 hits to uncut factory spring hits. continue untill you can see the hits are just begining to be not as deep and leave it there. If you go too far, you can always get another spring or washer the spring up at the top and that will reverse most of 1/2 of a cut. The ealier bottom hit FP guns needed more hammer spring to do the job with all the slop in the cylinders. Folks dont realize how important it is to have a tight cylinder to n fro with good head space in a 22. ALWAYS check the cylinder for that movement befor purchase. I like the 94s and even bored mine out to mag. It shoots tighter in mag than it did in LR! Its my wifes house gun these days cause she can shoot it so well.
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