Adjusting the safety to engage earlier in its compression against the frame is pretty easy to do. The protruding nose that blocks the trigger bow just needs its underside filed up slightly. Just don't take much off, as the pivot around the thumb safety pin is closer to that nose than to the bottom end of the safety, so the amount you take off will be less than the amount it changes the engagement point at the bottom of the safety.
A cheap quick fix you can do is to get a little self-adhesive foam insulating strip and stick a square of it the width of the grip safety on the bottom of the grip safety. This will press the grip safety closed even if your palm doesn't contact it well. It's not so good for a combat gun due to rough handling during presentation, but for a bullseye match it holds up fine.
My dad had this problem with the school gun he took to Gunsite, and it is just the shape of his hand being a little hollow in that area with his normal grip. This is something that can change with age, hand shape being affected some by how you use your hands during your life. Dad had never had that problem shooting his Goldcup in bullseye matches, but the faster shooting at Gunsite that didn't allow time to carefully set the grip showed it up.
Dad got the grip safety clipped permanently down on his school gun, though I would be more hesitant to do that on a Goldcup if the trigger is lightened and especially if you have the original trigger with its heavy steel stirrup. Those factors make inertial firing more likely. The grip safety prevents that from happening should you drop the loaded and cocked gun grip frame down. Release of the grip safety when pressing the slide release to chamber a round will also prevent a slamfire, though its awkward. (Just keeping the trigger pressed while releasing the slide is easier and keeps the disconnector down until the dust has settled.)
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