I run into inconsistent progressive priming on Dillon's, too (though a 1050 can be set up to a fixed primer depth). The best priming tools cost most. You can adjust the Sinclair hand tool to protrude a fixed 0.004" to .005" above flush with the case head, then just drive all the way home each time. The K&M primer/gauge tool is even more elaborate, zeroing each individual primer to the individual primer pocket into which it will be seated, then letting you read the exact amount of bridge set on the dial. Slow going, but maximum repeatability of the bridge set.
If you want to avoid further investment, though, Dan Hackett wrote in the Precision Shooting reloading guide that he had simply taken to seating primers "hard". Probably not crushing them to the point of distortion, but pretty hard. He claimed that even with long cases like those based on the .30-06, he'd been able to get standard deviations down to under 10 fps when doing that. So that would be the first thing I tried if I were in your shoes.
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