Commonly called the 1917 Enfield or even Pattern 1917 and a lot of other names.
Correct would be US Model of 1917 Eddystone/Remington or Winchester mfg.
I got intrigued by these when following a research trail I found that the Model of 1917 was by far the predominate service rifle issued in WWI. Sgt York was issued a 1917.
I now own one in the Remington version (mostly, it does have the expected mix of W and E parts though the bolt body is also R). Re parked after WWI and a good job and excellent condition. Great stock with character and the cartouches it should have.
Value wise you never know what the interest will be and what triggers it (the various media attention which includes the internet now). I think they will keep going up and how much depends on the attention factors it does or does not get.
Barrel condition is going to determine if it will shoot and that's a hard one as most do not list TE (throat erosion and muzzle check) gauge condition (the usual its clean, rifling is strong but dirty etc). You can negotiate a "return to sender" if it does not pass those. They may turn you down.
Interesting aspects are that that they are not as easily handled as the 1903s (both heavier and longer). I agree.
Offsetting that is the superior peep sight and a better sniper than the 1903 was (sans a scope). Likely very effective for someone who could shoot but was not a sniper.
There is also the odd Brit "cock on close" function. I am exploring the myth of how much faster firing that was. Frankly I don't think so, more an approach that no one could prove false as it had a great deal to do with the training and capability of an individual.
I did have one person contend that an SMLE could out shoot an M1 Garand (42 aimed shots a minutes). Top kick in the Brit Army with 15 years training maybe could do that, but the average platoon would be no where close to that let aloen vs a average M1 equipped platoon. Urban legend, trick shooting. I know a guy who won matches with a glock because he trained himself hard.
Another guy trained himself to shoot a Sig DA/SA even better as he used the DA function to start his trigger pull as he was coming out of the holster and had it ready to snap off as he came on target. Also won a lot and trick shooting. Not for everyone.
While fine for target shooting or hunting, I think the cock on close is slower by a lot than the standard Mauser operation. The bolt is not nearly as smooth functioning as a 1903 (these are observations, not condemnations - they are solid guns, I just don't believe in myths}
Some interesting details are they saw a lot of action in WWII in the 1914 version as well as the 1917. Philippine Army was equipped with them (1917) just prior to WWII (just what the smaller Philiponos needed). China also got a large number.
The trigger is interesting with a heavy long pull. On mine you then hit a spot if you are being careful you can feel the sear start to move. It should allow good let off. Not the real two stage exactly but good feel.
SK makes a non drill type scope mount for the gun so if you can't shoot iron sights you have that ability.
I would stay away from guns that the barrel dates do not mach up with the receiver manufacture dates (and if a barrel change return if the receiver is cracked). Early barrels on latter receivers more likely to be shot out than latter ones.
WWII replacement barrels should be good accuracy wise but opinion vary on the JA two grove. You never know if someone did not get the stock tension right and blames the barrel.
Receivers with different barrels should be carefully inspected and the deal should be an auto return at their expense if internet purchase if its cracked (that's a defective gun). Ditto if local bought unless agreed on before hand its as is.
The barrels were screwed on tight and the best approach is to cut the barrel before removing to relieve the tension. If not done then the receiver can crack and reportedly Eddystone is more prone (also a whole lto more made so I would guess its a numbers thing as Eddystone and Remington were the same company, just different plants)
You do need to define what you want.
1. Just a shooter? Then parts match and a genuine stock are not an issue, its all about condition.
2. You want a collector? Then parts match is important with the most important being the receiver and barrel with matching dates. You may not care if its a good shooter though these still tend to be shot not purely collected.
3. Stock conditon: A lot of these are sanded and those no longer have collector value. They do not detract form being a shooter, but thats not the same as one with the cartouch marks and the character a collector should have. You can have a sanded stock with a good parts match.
4. If you have the main parts matched, you can buy the bits and pieces to bring it into compliance if you want. As noted stocks with correct character are hard to come by.
I think its a great gun to add to a collection if you are interested in the various military bolt actions and should be on anyone list of the 1903s as they really did define the US military for a long time and have at least as much history as the 1903s.