Well let's see if I can clear up a few things...........
Scorch (in post #14) did a real good job of how a cartridge Colts revolver works (2 stage hand), the Cap and Ball versions all utilize a single stage hand.
This is not all in vain........because if you take that part of his explanation away the rest of his "snubbing" story is basically your problem!
First, make sure the length of the hand is correct. It should not over rotate the cylinder with the bolt and trigger out of the firearm. Just hold some tension on the cylinder and cock the hammer (with the grip frame, hammer and mainspring attached). Once this is done, measure the width of the bolt and the bolt notches in the cylinder. The bolt much fit in the notch. If necessary file/stone the side (not the leading side).
The main culprit in your saga is that the ramp leading UP to the tooth of the ratchet is cut perpendicular to the face of the Kirst cylinder. This causes the hand to "stack" as it tries to push the cylinder forward as it turns the cylinder (has to do with the curved slot in the frame). Walt Kirst was over here a time or two ago and I pointed this out to him and he agrees that it needs to be addressed in future manufacture. I ALWAYS round this ramp with a dremel to ensure smooth cocking all the way through the hammer stoke and I assure you that I have not done a single conversion on a Walker or Dragoon that didn't need this.
The amount of free play, fore and aft, of your cylinder also affects this "stacking" I am referring to. This is noticeable if you pound the wedge in too far, the cylinder will rub the breech end of the barrel and the cocking will become much harder.........
Getting a real good action in a Walker or Dragoon is not quick or easy with a Kirst cylinder but it can be done! The 1849 Colts is even harder........
By the way, I am not asociated with Kirst in any way other than selling their product and my FRIENDSHIP with Walt. I still do a LOT of Trial and Development for Walt and I support their products wholeheartedly.