Sorry I was not clear about what snubbing in transition means. The way a Colt single action works is as you cock the hammer, the bolt is withdrawn from the cylinder, the top part of the hand starts pushing the cylinder around, then the second shelf picks up the tooth on the ratchet (transition) and carries it to where the cylinder bolt locks the cylinder. If the second shelf on the hand is too high, it runs into the ratchet (snubbing) and gets jammed inside the frame. Fitting the hand will eliminate this problem. It is usually enough to lower the second shelf on the hand, but occasionally you need to do more, which is why I mentioned looking at a book that has the information. A good shop manual will clearly illustrate how to properly fit the hand in a Colt single action. I learned how to fit pawls/hands as a shop hand in a gunsmithing shop, so I cannot guide you to a good shop manual, but I am sure there are others on this forum that can, or you could go to Brownells or Midway and look for one.
Without having the revolver in my hands I cannot tell you if the hand needs to be reshaped. Fitting a hand is not hard once you know how, but learning by doing is not always easy without a guide.
And whatever you do, stone or file the hand and not the ratchet. You can get another hand if you mess up, you cannot buy another ratchet (it is part of the cylinder).
Never try to educate someone who resists knowledge at all costs.
But what do I know?