Are you working with a modern commercial bolt action or a milsurp sporter or an older rifle?
I ask because there are far more variables with the older stuff and milsurp sporters.
Some has to do with what scope you are putting on it,and what your priorities are.
For example,among the lowest,lightest,cheapest darned strong setups is the original Weaver low setup,it worked fine on a steel tube Weaver K-4.At home on a basic hunting rifle.Would not be my choice for a 50 mm objective scope.
Some outfits make a piece of picatinny rail for bolt guns,strong and practical.
The Leupold QRW's and PRW's I am happy with..a might heavy,but overall,good.
I do things a little different,most folks just can't afford as much time and trouble as I put into mounting a scope.Older days,bases were out of square,poorly machined sometimes.Receiver rings varied.
I use prussian blue to make sure the base matches the receiver.If it doesn't,it gets re machined.For 2 piece bases
I also screw the bases on,set the receiver up on parallels and run a dial indicator across the surfaces the rings set on.If I see more than .001,I remachine something.
Then,I put a drop of green cylindrical fit loc-tite under the base to bed it to the rifle.I dummy assembly it and let the loctite set.
Then I lap the rings.
All this takes time,and almost no one would pay to have all that done.I wouldn't!!But thats what I do for me.
When I'm done,its rock solid,and the scope is running in rings that will not distort the tube.
Keep that your goal.Whatever it takes,you pay $1200 for a scope to get precision tolerances ..less than .001,then put together a base/ring setup that warps the tube .020 and things like your scope adjustments will not work well.
Or,stuff like reticles and lenses set in adhesive pops loose..
Keep that in mind