Thread: Bluing Workshop
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Old May 22, 2012, 06:59 PM   #2
kraigwy
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Join Date: June 16, 2008
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 9,360
Brownell's furnishes instructions with their bluing salts.

I can tell you my set up. I use a small building with lots of ventilation.

I have a stand with 4 tanks, on for Fresh water, one for soapy water, one for the salts and one for the water saluable oil.

I have two burners that run under the first three tanks. Soapy water, Salts, and oil. The fresh water tank isn't heated. I keep fresh water running through this tank

Throw the gun or part in the soapy hot water, then into the fresh cool water then into the tanks. After about twenty minutes I take the blued part out of the salts and into the fresh water again. Then into the oil/water.

Critical issue is temp. Keep it between at 295 degree. Too cold and the part will have a greenish tint. Two hot and it will have a redish tint.

Get a bluing thermometer from Brownell's, keep the needle in the black. If it the salts cool down turn up the fire a tad, if it gets too hot, cool it off with fresh water.

Bluing isn't really hard, what makes or breaks a bluing job is prep, (Polishing) before the bluing.

Brownell's sells everything thing you need, tanks burners, thermometer, salts.
burners, etc.

For soap you can use powdered dish washing soap. Not laundry soap, you don't want suds all over the place.

You also need some water salable oil, you can get that at any petroleum supply or machine shop.
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