Chris: to put a "hamerless/DAO revolver" into full lockup, you basically do a DA trigger pull but "catch" the hammer on the way down somehow and gently lower it all the way with the trigger still pulled (and held) all the way back.
If the hammer does NOT have the firing pin mounted in it, you can "catch" the falling hammer with the pad of your off-hand thumb. If the hammer has the pin in it, use a plastic pen or similar to catch the hammer with and then slowly slide the pen out, lowering the hammer without dry-firing. You CAN get there just by dry-firing (and holding the trigger back) it but that's impolite unless permission is offered.
It's a very good question, for sure. I prefer hammers on my goodies
which is why I didn't think of it.
Excellent advice on both the screws and ejector star. A worn or sloppy star is pretty rare, but certainly happens.
On the screws, if they're mashed to hell and gone, you bet that's a potential issue. But screws that have clearly been turned but professionally aren't a big issue with me if the gun otherwise passes all tests. Especially if things like cylinder gap, trigger smoothness and cylinder play clearly are "better than stock", it means the gun was tuned up and to me, that's a selling point if I think it was done right. Truly buggered screws are a bad sign of "it wasn't done right"...
Later, I'll incorporate the contents of this post into the first, giving credit where due. I'll then probably publish it up on my website as being primarily my own work but with good additions by specific people. Sound OK?