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Old October 1, 2010, 10:06 AM   #3
Howard31
Senior Member
 
Join Date: December 6, 2009
Location: Hudson Valley,NY
Posts: 193
M1 Tune up

Assuming that your barrel is good and the stock fits snuggly all the accuracy in an M1 is from the lower band forward.Remove the lower band and stipple or knurl the bearing surface. Hammer lower band back on favoring the left side. During recoil the op rod bows to the right and if you favor the right the rod will hit the lower band . Make a new lower band pin from an old drill bit. Cut w/ Dremel and loc-tite in.
Rear hand guard make sure it does not wedge in,it should have about 1/16 gap between the wood and the front face of the reciever.If it touches when it expands it will push the muzzle down.
Front hand guard,remove the spacer,you don't need it.Take your dremel and relieve the front ferrule so it does not contact the brl.
Gas clyinder- Dremel the rear ring so it does not touch the brl. I ruined an expensive expandable reamer on a cylinder,they are stainless and a dremel does work best. The gas cyl should fit tight on the splines,if it does not-lightly peen the rear portion of the splines. Start the cyl on the brl,you should use a hammer and a wood block,just get it started enough so you can get 3-4 turns on the lock ring.
Put the bolt in the rifle and attach op-rod. With the bolt all the way forward measure from the front face of the locking ring to the forward face of the op-rod.Using a large crescent wrench with tape on the jaws to prevent chewing up the lock ring crank down the lock ring until the distance from the op-rod face to the front edge of the r

Last edited by Howard31; October 1, 2010 at 11:04 AM.
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