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Old April 1, 2009, 09:19 AM   #1276
carguychris
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Join Date: October 20, 2007
Location: Richardson, TX
Posts: 5,501
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First, I was shooting at steel about 25-30 yds, didn't have any paper to see where it shoots or how tight the shots, but it was impossible to make a strike without blotching out the steel chicken at that distance.
Went to adjust rear sight, there was no elevation play in the rear sight bar (like most of my guns) with no spring and click detents for elevation adjustment... Is this normal for this type of rear sight?... Rear sight bar appears to be made without a spring(?) Will this sight base flex if I were to turn the screw up or down? Looked to be all the way down so maybe can't do much to improve it.
I'm a little confused by all of this verbage, but your K-22 should have the same basic type of micrometer-adjustable rear sight assembly used on modern S&Ws. There was an older design that uses smaller screws with no click adjustment, and a couple of even older design with no elevation adjustment, but these types should only be found on prewar guns.

Elevation is adjusted with the big screw (which is actually a hollow nut) in front of the blade. The nut engages a stud mounted to the frame. Turning the nut clockwise moves the POI down, counterclockwise moves the POI up. The entire rear sight base flexes upwards when you adjust elevation. In fact, if you try to adjust it too far upwards, you may inadvertantly remove the adjustment nut from the stud, which will cause the entire sight base to "sproing" upwards, possibly causing the washer on the stud or the adjuster nut to fly off. Be careful adjusting the elevation nut when you can see air underneath the sight base!
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Other thing I noticed, it was very difficult to eject the empty brass. Only because brass were very tight, no other problems within the ejecting system I can see. Works normal while empty. Used 3 brands of ammo in it, all ejected hard.
Older K-22s have notoriously tight chambers. Keep the chambers clean and keep experimenting with different types of ammo. Cheap bulk-pack is generally bad because the tolerances are loose and some cases are larger than others. Remington is also bad because their cases tend to run large. I've had the best luck with Federal target loads, Aguila, and Wolf/SK. {EDIT} Another suggestion is to stick with standard-velocity ammo, because the lower pressure causes the cases to swell less.
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I was told by the owner that I could dry fire this K -22 rimfire. I did dryfire at time of purchase, but found S&W suggestion that rimfire's not be dryfired...any info on this? I have since placed empty brass in cyl to dryfire, is this ok to do?
S&W rimfire revolvers have no mechanism to prevent the firing pin from striking the backside of the chamber when dry-fired. Dry-firing a couple of times generally won't hurt anything, but repeated dry-firing will cause telltale ugly dimples on the cylinder, and may damage the firing pin. Dry-firing with empty cases in the chambers is the correct procedure and shouldn't hurt anything.
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My fathers 2003 manufactured model 617 has a recessed cylinder, so yes they are still available with recessed cylinders.
All post-1935 rimfire S&Ws have recessed cylinders to prevent case-head seperations when using high-velocity ammo. FWIW the collector talk about recessed chambers applies only to S&Ws in centerfire Magnum calibers, causing lots of confusion amongst n00bs who try to apply it to rimfire guns (which are almost all recessed, including today's production) and centerfire non-Magnum guns (which were almost never recessed).
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Last edited by carguychris; April 1, 2009 at 09:30 AM.
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