I beg to differ with the idea that you can trim a little off an adjusting sleeve (that is not a headspace ring, the chamber ring is a different part) to make it put things back in service, unless you are also contemplating an enormous amount of other refit work to the barrel and frame. [That is presuming the use of the original ring. A different ring (that didn't fit snugly in one of the conventional notches) may possibly fit from an offbeat recut, but never count on that kind of luck.]
I have seen examples where desperate shooters had recut notches on the opposite side (180 degrees out) as well as adding notches past the original factory cuts, and refacing the rear of the sleeve to turn the sleeve on one more turn (and/or out one turn) and still have a genuinely sloppy fit of the barrel. In other words, that is no answer, at all.
There is no substitute for using a properly fit and snug replacement adjusting sleeve, and very seldom will I need to use one alternate gunsmith method.
Using shims between the barrel and chamber ring must be the most ludicrous idea set forth in recent gun parts history, since it happens to be a substandard answer to a question that has a proper answer available. It does provide one solution, though, it provides cheapness. Just the thing your Winchester ought to appreciate, huh?
By the way, Joat, I don't know who wrote that posting about the receiver threads not being cut directly into the receiver metal, but they were definitely making the issue confusing, since threads ARE cut in the metal of the receiver. Those threads are interrupted, as are the threads of the adjusting sleeves. That explanation is closer to the use of a frame-mounted adjuster such as was used in Remington guns Models 10, 29, 31), but still is bound to cause confusion.
I would not advise anybody to use that paragraph as an example of proper explanation, since too many errors are present.