I'm looking over a Stevens Model 57 Series E 12ga pump for a friend of mine. It recently stopped functioning during a dove hunt. According to him, after firing the last shot in the shotgun, he attempted to open the action to clear the shotgun and found it locked up.

The bolt and forearm slide back around 1/4 or so, then it stops hard. Shining a flashlight in the action with the magazine tube removed shows what looks to be the shell stop floating more or less freely over the lifter/gate. It appears as though over time the screw holding the shell stop in place weakened and finally fractured, letting the shell stop wander where it shouldn't. With the action completely closed the shell stop moves very little, open as much as currently possible and it floats around quite a bit, but I can't find a way to get it out of the action.

Does anyone know of a way to get the shell stop out without being able to open the action and properly disassemble the shotgun? I'm not super familiar with this model at all, and am certainly not a gunsmith. Just good with my hands and trying to help a friend. :D

Also, if anyone knows of a readily available parts source for this shotgun, I would appreciate that as well, as I am currently having a hard time finding any.

Thanks in advance!

P.S. Pictures to follow if I can get my phone to cooperate.

I shoot smokeless for cowboy action, but today a broken cylinder stop spring put my Colt out of action.
For the first time I had my 1860 and 1858 with me, so I finished the last 2 stages with my cap and ball pistols. That winter practice with them helped me not miss!
I have loaded bp for shotgun and rifle, maybe I will come completely over to the dark side!

$35.06 per 1000 but in stock at the moment. 2 piece max though.

A friend and I had a debate and we don't know the actual answer to this question.

If you have a legal SBR can it be given to another person for range use with your consent or perhaps left at his home overnight for your convenience. Since it has already been legally marked as an SBR and if you gave him a copy of the paper work to keep until he returned it to you? Or if he uses it does he need to be under constant supervision by you and it has to always remain with you?

He said it is like a suppressor it always has to be with you.

While I for some reason felt after it is registered and marked as an SBR it can be treated much like any other weapon... You just need to be sure you have the permit and stuff in order so the actual creation of the weapon is legal.

I've read some stuff @ ar15.com and so on concerning it and you can give it to a person legally to make modifications to the weapon without you needing to be present. Would like your info would really influence future purchases.

Just thought I'd introduce myself here on the board.
Been shooting my whole life, from my Dad cocking his old Daisy #25 for me because I was too young to work the action to shooting his WW2 Remington Rand GI issue 45 acp at the age of 12.

My most recent addition this week was a surplus Star Model B Super, Israeli Police surplus online for $260.00 so I couldn't pass it up.
I removed the mag safety it was binding the mag and I honestly don't care for a mag safety.:cool:

Here she is in all her 42 year old glory, a beater for sure but she shoots very well.



Took me 3 rounds to get the feel of her..



Well thanks for looking, I hope to be of value to the boards

Does anyone know who can do this conversion at a reasonable price? I have seen custom shops doing it for over $2k, but I dont want one even half that bad. I have the #1 rifle already.

Got my first centerfire revolver, Ruger New Model Blackhawk .357 SS 6.5". 1975 production according to Ruger's serial number charts, finish is nearly perfect and the pawn shop had it at a price that was just too good to pass up.

I've been going through the test on this list. I'll say up front that I'm fairly confident everything is fine on the gun I just want to be overly paranoid and double check since I'm not that experienced with revolvers.

Cylinder gap: A sheet of college-ruled notebook paper fits easily. A sheet of plain printer/copy paper fits with slight resistance. Not sure how thick either of those are but I don't really have anything else to measure it with.

Lock up: Front to back there is a tiny amount of movement. If you hold the gun up to the light and look through the side you can just barely perceive that the cylinder moves a bit front to back. Side to side there is a more noticeable wiggle, I would say that there is maybe half a millimeter or so of rotation.

Obligatory pic:

I've done a ton of reading and I'm seeing a lot of guys doing both, however, I'd like to cut down a step if I could on my brass. I've got a "cleaning/polishing" media from Lyman and it leaves a red dust on them that I'm spending a lot of time wiping off. Does their "corn cob" media dust like this inside/out of the brass?

My thouhts are to ditch the tumbler and buy an ultrasonic cleaner, size/deprime all my brass then run it through the cleaner and just let it air dry over night before I load.

"Water spotted" brass doesn't bother me, I mean I can wipe it off so it doesn't spot but what does bug me is all the media dust in my brass. I haven't been TOO particular with it as all of my handloading thus far is plinking loads in 45 colt, 45 acp, and 9mm but I am getting ready for some Ruger Only loads in my 45 colt for some handgun hunting and want to dial in my SBH.

Thoughts?

Thanks again fellas.

I have a few questions concerning these shotguns. I understand they were made in Belgium for Sears & Roebuck and were not imported from WW1 on. I have one that belonged to my dad and apparently his grandfather before him and wondering how to date it if possible. It does have Belgium proof marks underside of the barrel, the dog on the sides and of course the double hammers and triggers. I was thinking of taking it to a gunsmith and see if it was safe to shoot light loads in.

Hello, let me first say I am mostly a novice when it comes to firearms. I have been given a 12 gauge shotgun passed down from my grandpa. I have no ammo, and am a bit confused about what to get.

This is what the gun has stamped on it "12 gauge - 3 IN - modified". So I thought 3" shells is what I need, but what could the "modified" part mean? I guess it's a smaller brand, at least not one I've heard of, just says "Made in Brazil by CBC". But again, I'm a novice.

Also, I've been told 00 Buckshot is what I want for maximum power for home defense. Sound right?

Thanks!

Went to the Antique and Collector Gun Show in Denver today.
I'm not particularly a C & R guy but I like guns and it was a Gun Show so why not :-)
Lots of beautiful guns - lots of tables full of guns ranging in condition from pristine to nasty. More revolvers than I've seen in one place at one time...ever.

What I didn't see were transactions taking place...people walking around with guns they'd purchased...what I did see were geezers. Lots of geezers. (I get to say geezer because I am one). If 5% of the people in that huge show were under 50 I'd be amazed.

Now I get that most of the buying and selling at shows like this takes place on day one and the end of the last day and it takes place among the exhibitors. Standard drill - that's the way it is in most collector shows. But who will be the market for these guns in 10 years?

I'm sure the price tags reflect current book values but at those prices I don't see how a person with an interest in such firearms could ever justify the cost. If this is like other avocations I've been around, most of the guys started collecting and buying 30 years ago. Good deals to be had. Now they're looking to cash in their firearm based IRA's but who's buying?

Please don't flame me for asking - I really would like to know what the market is for these guns?

Hi guys,

I've been working 7 days a week for the past month... not fun, but getting extra money and my work is near several LGS's. So, on the weekends I've been stopping by and checking out guns. I've been mulling it over and I'm going to buy a SP101 next month (or there-about).

The purpose of this gun would be for CC. I'm very torn between the 2.25" and 3.06" models. I can find a lot of deep-conceal, tuck-able type IWB holsters for the 2.25", but having a difficult time finding something for the 3.06" model. I'm leaning towards the 2.25" model right now and will most likely go that route. I, on the other hand , am very well aware of the "pros" the 3.06" has going for it, but that would be moot if it is harder to carry like I would want to.

So, anybody have any leads to this elusive holster type for the 3.06" that may sway me to that version of the sp101?

Thanks

Have a chance to Pick up new Springfield .45 acp Range officer new for 750 with the shooters pack.

What do you all think? Deal or no Deal

Hi all,

I am looking at IMR powder's "Handloader's Guide" and they list 59.0 grains (Compressed load) of IMR 4831 for a 150 grain ptd spcl. for the .30-06.

My question is with this load, is whether it safe to back off the charge a hair - say 57-58 grains, or not. Is this listed compressed load on the "hot side"? The CUP listed in the data seems to suggest it is not. But I wanted your all's opinions.

I've got a couple pounds of this powder and want to shoot it up in my .30-06 bolt guns since IMR 4895 is like hens' teeth around here and I need to use all that I have of that powder in my M1 Garand.

Thanks.

so i came across a thread similar themed thread on another forum i frequent. it was one of the coolest threads ive ever read! i didnt see anything like that in a quick search of TFL so i thought it would be a nice change. this can be anything from bigfoot sightings, aliens, finding old artifacts, guns whatever! just cool stories!

ill start.

i worked on a ranch near Riley Oregon while i was in high school. most of the employees were high school kids and a couple of mexican guys. we would get sundays off and usually would spend them coyote hunting, shooting sage rats, or jackrabbits.
one night around 1 AM we were out cruising the roads with our 22's in a Kawasaki Mule looking for some flea bitten varmint that needed a lead pill. when suddenly a series of bright lights zoomed across the sky at what seemed like Mach 90, then coming to an abrupt stop. we watched it totally stupefied as it hovered over the desert probably 500 ft in the air for about 3 min, then suddenly it zoomed off at about Mach 90 again in the opposite direction of us.
we all looked at each other wondering if anyone else had just seen what the other had. "did you guys just see that?!" "yeah! lets get the **** out of here before it comes back and wants to probe us!"
so we hauled butt back to the bunkhouse and proceeded to polish of a case of beer we had stashed for weekend recreational use.

and for a interesting thing i found in the woods: i found this old wagon while out rounding up cattle with my mother on some BLM land North of Burns



Moderators: If this thread needs to be moved to the General Discussion forum pleas feel free.

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For sale 1000 pieces of 40 S&W brass cleaned $50, or 500 for $30-pm for details.

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I'm trying to start reloading .40 S&W. Is there one company that provides a more consistent or just plain "better" primer?

Sorry - new to the forums so I am not sure if this is the correct place to post. I was curious if anyone has any knowledge of available 80% 1911 frames? I know that there are obviously 80% lowers for AR's, and after a google search I was able to find 80% frames for 1911's but of course nothing is in stock, and the ones that are would be from a website requesting gold or silver as a currency to purchase their products (never heard of that before :confused:).

Having never completed an 80% build of any type, assuming the mag well is drilled, would it be fairly easy to complete an 80% 1911? I'm assuming you would just need to drill out the thumb safety, slide release, mag release, etc. After successfully completing one I think I would make a guide for future frames to make it easier/faster (unless they have those available as well).

I appreciate the feedback.

Hi guys, I keep seeing AA3100 showing up as most accurate powder in my Nosler handbook. I emailed Accurate and they said that the powder was discontinued and that Accurate Magpro was their main replacement. Are they the same thing, similar, or totally different?

This is a rifle I had built for my son commemorating his enlistment in the Navy. It's engraved with the Navy emblem plus the date he was sworn in and the date he graduated Boot Camp. The front of the magwell has "H C C" which stands for Honor Courage Commitment along with the Boatswain's Mate emblem which he started off as along with CVN-74 which is the John C. Stennis Aircraft Carrier he is assigned to. The serial number is his initials and birth date. It’s made by Black Dawn here in Sedalia, MO which is also his hometown so it’s pretty cool to have that city and state stamped on the lower.

The barrel is a 20” heavy profile that’s threaded should he ever want to add a suppressor down the road. The 15” rail is free-floating that accepts the picatinny adapters and is designed by the owner of Black Dawn. The bolt is nickel boron coated which is a really nice feature as well as the Magpul PRS stock and Magpul Enhanced trigger guard. It’s topped with a Leupold Mark AR Mod 1 6x18 scope with the Mil Dot reticle and the Leupold Mark 2 IMS mount. Since it’s going to be primarily used for varmint hunting, some deer hunting and just regular plinking at various ranges, I still need to get a bipod put on it for him. He’ll have to cover the expense of a better trigger which will most likely be either the Wilson or Geissele 3 gun offerings.

He was back last week from deployment for a few days which also happened to be at the time of his birthday. Having the gun completed to give to him was a great bonus and he was ecstatic with it. The first three shots grouped within a 1/2" at 100 yards with 55gr Federal American Eagle ammo and the gun functioned flawlessly in the 200 rounds we ran through it. It will be really interesting to see what this thing will do with a better trigger and some premium ammo as even with the cheap stuff, no grouping exceeded 1" MOA. I “reluctantly” agreed to play around with it while he’s gone to see what it likes the most but stressed the importance of his hurrying up and getting a trigger shipped to me although I have a sneaking suspicion who will actually be buying the trigger LOL!





After we got it dialed in, we set up a little "Shooting Gallery" just to blast at and have fun with along with testing the functionality of his rifle. With three of us out there with AR's, we set up 30 targets and it was some great, friendly competition to see who could hit the most in the shortest time using various shooting positions...good times!

I have a Browning in 270 cal. The serial # is L11430. I can't seem to locate the DOM for this rifle. Has to be in the mid 60's. No noticable rusting anywhere where wood meets steel. I can't seem to locate an exploded view of the rifle anywhere either! So, if you can help, I would appreciate it. Thanks !

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Going to tool up for Spring here. Thinking of casting maybe 200ct 30 cal tips for the old (94) 30-30. I have the ability to G/check and a nice new .311 lube/sizer die required for the bore. Lyman is my first choice for molds. I know there are two bullet molds that Lyman sell primarily for the application > (lever rifles).

1. 311041

2. 311291

So those who have experience in using either. What's your personal preference? Why Sir?

Thanks,

as always all comments are indeed welcome.

A friend of mine who is a very passionate about the Bill of Rights and the role he plays in it as a LEO recently emailed me something he wrote. I really enjoyed reading it and figured I would share it with others. Unfortunately, not everyone he works with feels the same way. Enjoy.

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Hello gentlemen I was hoping to learn a bit more about finishes from your sage like wisdom. Which ones are prone to rust in particular. For instance My P229 is coated in Nitron which from what I hear helps prevent rust, but what about brushed steel, cerakote, blued steel, stainless steel, and whatever they coat glocks in.

How rust resistant are these finishes? I hear despite the nitron sigs are prone to rust. I hear 1911 are as well.

Just curious as to how they rate these things and how well it really performs. And if there are certain things I can do protect my pistol from rust and of course any future pistols. I am seeing a Colt 1911 in my future, but of course that won't be my last firearm purchase.

So I recently learned about a technique for folks who load their own shells. You put everything in except the lead and have your shell ready. Then you mix your lead with some sort of melted wax (on youtube I've seen candles and crayons) and pour the mix into the shotgun shell. The wax keeps all the shot together in flight as a single projectile, but on impact it breaks up pretty quickly.

Is this really a more effective load than the shot used would be on its own?

I've also seen folks use hot glue instead of wax which is supposed to be a little bit harder, anyone know about that?

This bill does a whole lot of nice things but has some issues that are being debated within the GOP ranks. Bill is widely expected to pass.

Currently Alabama does not issue permits to non-residents. Permits are good for one year only and must be renewed annually for a charge (my county is $15). The bill has been amended to go from "lifetime" to five years instead. Five years would be great and save me the trouble of stopping in annually.

Reciprocity is also a mess. This bill would make it universal, even if the other state does not recognize the Alabama Permit.


While this would be a big step it would not affect government agencies so employee carry would be restricted there. School employees are already not restricted from carry though. Bill also authorizes compensation for harassed/ fired employees.


The law has been unclear on this for while. Some places (rarely) post "no gun" signs. This has been the big sticking point on the debate. The bill will make the signs legal and enforceable by law.

Private property rights vs Gun Rights. If the bill gets shelved it will be over this.

This would be a big victory for open carry; the legality of is a an open debate depending upon what county/ city you live in. In regard to disorderly conduct:

However guns would be prohibited at demonstrations.

Limits lawsuits and liability to businesses:


Bill would also prohibit mass release of permits:

Clarifies the use of Deadly Force. This will allow deadly force usage in any kind of burglary, theft or robbery.



http://legiscan.com/AL/text/SB286

http://www.fox10tv.com/dpp/onpolitix...bates-gun-bill

http://www.al.com/opinion/index.ssf/...g_on_scho.html

Will a press self centre?
This is an old Lyman turret press. The press indexes cleanly and locates firmly, but the ram has a slight axial movement about it's centreline at the top of it's stroke - I estimate about 30 to 50 thou. Clearly wear in the casting is the major cause.

Now will the ram self-centre a case on the die assuming the centre of the ram movement encloses the centre of the die? If the centre of the ram is outside the base area then the case will be crushed - but only then.

It may well be the die will create the easiest path for the ram.

Would this work with ALL types of cases or just straight walled?

I would think if the movement of the axis was less than half the ram diameter when the case entered the die it should self align.
I really would be interested in thoughts on this one.

Finally my powder is being shipped and I can start reloading again after 10 years of not being able to reload...

The powder I am getting is True Blue and will be loading cast bullets for 9mm, .45acp, .454causll and .357mag. I have never used TB and ended up buying it because that is the only powder I could find at the time. I downloaded the Ramshot manual but thought I would ask you guys for some input.

The guns I am loading for are
Glock 17 - 9mm
Glock 30 - .45acp
Ruger blackhawk (old 3 screw) in .357mag
Ruger SRH 454 casull

I am loading for plinking, accuracy and relaxing. If I use them in competition it will be against my GF to see who buys dinner, LOL

Do any of you guys have pet loads I can start with to get me on the paper?

Hey everyone,

I am thinking about picking up a 45-70 rifle. I have not shot one yet but was thinking about a simple break action or Marlin just because. No reason or justification on this one. Anyone got some helpful tips for the 45-70?

There are 64 Counties in Colorado. Yesterday, Friday May 17th, 54 of Colorado's Sheriffs (along with several other plaintiffs) filed a lawsuit in the US Federal District Court for Colorado.

The suit seeks to enjoin the State from enforcing HB 1224 (13-1225) and HB 1229 (13-1229), on 2A and 14A grounds. The suit also asks the court to declare the laws unconstitutional and grant a permanent injunction against enforcement.

This lawsuit is David Kopel' first foray into the 2A lawsuit waters, as he is the lead attorney for the Sheriffs.David Kopel is an attorney with the Independence Institute and has filed many amici briefs in other cases. He is also a well recognized member of The Volokh Conspiracy blog.

I will have the info for posting in the 2A Cases thread, likely Monday or Tuesday.

Finally got the 7mm Mag out to the range today, happy to say it was accurate as hell and I didn't get a scope to the eye :p

Had an issue with the bolt though. After 6 shots it started getting hard to open the bolt and on the 8th it siezed, I could rotate it but not pull it back. I was able to get the bolt open by tapping it lightly with the but of my screw driver. I let it cool down (the barrel was HOT), cleaned it with a little hoppes, and oiled it with some break free. After that it fired and cycled beautifully until another 8 shots and it seized again.

I was shooting Federal Power Shok 150g Soft Point ammo. Is it just because its a new rifle and needs time to break in? Was I letting it get too hot? Or was it just the cheap ammo? I cleaned it last night and couldn't see anything out of the ordinary, but im not an expert by any means. I wish I would have saved some brass to look for signs of overpressure but I wasn't thinking about that at the time. Just seems weird it was doing it every 8 shots.

So, I spend quite a bit of time in an apartment (due to job being away from primary home) and concern about penetration leads me to the 20ga. for defense.

Would like a discussion on pros and cons of my SxS Rossi 20 gauge Coach gun vs. my newly-acquired 20 gauge Mossberg 510 pump purely for defensive use.

I'm curious if the pump (total 4-round capacity) is significantly superior to the SxS in reloading speed. Counter to that is that is, in most cases, I suspect, reloading will not be necessary anyway. In addition, I can reload the Rossi pretty quickly already and with a little practice...

I like them both, but would like to include the issue, in addition to pure utility, of intimidation factor. I would be absolutely prepared to shoot if necessary but would be happy as could be to have an intruder turn and run away.

And, for intimidation factor, do not consider the racking of the 510; it will be already conditon 1.

Thanks,

Will

Gunners,

Sorry if this is not in the appropriate thread.

Are there any legitimate statistics that state the percentage of threats that have been stopped when nothing more happens than a firearm is brought to bear by the intended victim?

Rmocarsky

Hello to all,

I have a question: how much should I pay for a Ruger Speed Six SS 2.75", 90-95% aesthetic, 100% mechanic, 500-600 rounds fired (No box).

Im outside the USA, but here in Argentina we usually take the american market price as reference.

Thanks in advance and sorry for my english.

I got a new NOE 5 cavity 92gr 380 mold and for the life of me I can not get a a good bullet out of it. I tried for over an hour to night and I got 7 bullets that would be close to shootable.

Most were so wrinkled or did not fill out worth a damn.

I am using straight WW for my lead.

I have a lee 4-20 pot. I tried setting the mold on the little shelf and letting the lead pour into the mold and I also tried pressing the mold up to the spout no difference.

With my lee molds I usually have it at #6 on the dial. I started there and turned the heat up a little at a time and when I quit I was at #8. The hotter I got it did seem to get a little better.

Any ideas what I am doing wrong?

Hi all,


I recently got a Tikka T3 Lite chambered in .308. Don't worry, I already installed a Limbsaver recoil pad :eek: I heard without one is quite painful with heavy loads.

I have a few questions for those who might know:

1. Will the 1:11 twist stabilize 175 grain SMK rounds just fine out to 1000 yards? Is the Federal 175 grain SMK BTHP the right round to do it? Using the JBM calculator, a 155 grain A-MAX @ 2800 fps has about the exact same trajectory as the 175 SMK @ 2650 fps. Does that sound right, so I could use these two rounds interchangeably with the same 200 yard zero?

2. Will frequent shooting of light, fast loads (150 grains @ 2,850/2,900) wear down the stainless steel barrel too fast?

3. Should I clean the barrel after each range trip, even if I only fire 10-15 rounds? Will a few patches with CLP do? Do I need a bore guide? Any particular cleaning kit or type of rod that you would recommend for this gun? I'm kind of new to bolt-actions incase you couldn't tell.

4. I bought an EGW 1 piece Picatinny scope mount (for a 4-14x IOR Valada), which I heard is pretty high quality. Should I use blue loctite, and do I need a torque wrench?

Thanks for the help guys! Any other random pointers on the .308 T3 are welcome.

Hello all. I apologize for digging this one from the grave but I was curious about zeroing an EOTECH. With traditional rifle scopes you are physically moving the crosshairs inside the scope barrel, or at least I am under that impression. With an EOTECH what are you adjusting when you make windage and elevation adjustments?

Thank you

people talk about "standard weight for caliber" bullets in reference to trailboss. it seems since about 1970 there is no real standard weight limit for particular cartridge calibers. sure the original load for a 45 colt was 250-260 grain lrnfl, but 300 grains is 'standard' for saami 45 colt.... and 270-290 is "standard" in many manuals as well.

so how do we really truly determine if a bullet is standard weight for the caliber? the original release of a cartridge, ie only 150 grain bullets allowed for 30-06?

I have opportunity to buy Smith & Wesson 357 4 inch barrel model 19-3,left the factory in 1970, is 600 a fair price?

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Well...I want to keep a tool box of parts and all for each of my weapons in case I need a part quickly I can replace it right then and there.

I'll be honest...I normally just wait til it breaks THEN replace it. The ammo shortage got me thinking though. What if it breaks and I can not acquire the part quickly. My G26 is my CC weapon and my main line of self defense when I am outside the house. Along with my wifes SR22 so I am starting my spare parts box with these two firearms FIRST.

My goal is to have a minimum of 1 extra part for each component that is replaceable. Now springs and firing pins I will have 2x or more.

Never built a parts box before...so looking for ideas? I am use to taking my service weapon to the armorer and they replace the parts right there. But personally owned firearms I do not have that privilege.

I just acquired a savage model NRA19. It is in very good condition with original magazine. I know it's old but is it safe to shoot.?

I just acquired a SAvage NRA 19 in 22 cal. With original magazine. It is in really good condition, but it must be pretty old. Is it safe to shoot?

Hi all,
need a little help.

I got the following from Hornady Tech support in response to a request for reloading data for their 3037 bullet - 150gr FMJBT, .308":

"Tough order to fill, with the non-expanding bullet, in part, due to the fact this type of bullet significantly increases the chances of a ricochet. Obviously, the 30-06 is way on the big side for a varmint gun as it is, I would suggest a bullet in the 130 to 150 grain area which will cause pelt damage but the 150 grain will do much less; such as the 150 InterLock item #3031 or the 130 grain item #3020.
Good Luck,"

Any ideas on a good range of loads? The usage is plinking, target practice, and maybe a coyote round that is less destructive to the pelts. Other recommendations are welcome!

- Smokiniron

Was interested to know if a 243 AI barrel can be reamed to 6 mm dasher??

Ammo collectors, have these 2 full boxes of ammo. Need a ball park figure on sale value?, pre and post panic lol. thanx

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I'm not a gunsmith, but years ago I must have thought I wanted to be.... I'll make my case then ask my questions.

I fell in love with the 10mm in the 90's and got a new Delta Elite (series 80) with the intent of using full pressure loads. Back then I recall reading about frame cracking in early productions.... yada yada, so I went and installed a Wilson Combat Shok-Buff Recoil System with its FLGR using the 18.5# recoil spring. The kit came with 1 extra power firing pin spring which I never installed. Its fired plenty of Corbon 135g, 180g BTSP and Winchester 175g loads flawlessly.

Fast forward to today, I don't shoot the gun much anymore but would like to get back into it when the ammo hype dies down. I recently picked up a box of Buffalo Bore 180g JHC but have not fired it yet. Anyways, I was reading about using heavier recoil springs and learned that using heavy recoil springs require using heavy firing pin springs to prevent inertia discharge from slide return. ooops, I never installed mine.

So should I? Remember, I have not had an issue... yet

Why not install extra power firing pin springs regardless of the recoil spring used?

Any answers and lectures appreciated.

Hey guys, I just recently purchased a used SRH 454 from a nearby dealer. Ive always wanted a hawk, and to top it all off this one is looking good in the target grey finish :) Shot it for the first time today, ran various 45 colt ammo no hiccups and accurate, but when I tried to put a 454 in, none of the chambers will fully take the cartridge. What I mean by that is that I cant get the rim on the round to sit flush against the cylinder. Because of this I cant close the cylinder with 454s loaded. I cleaned it thinking maybe it had a build up of powder, but that didnt work. Any ideas what this could be? Could it possibly just be the ammo? Ammo was 240 hornady xtp.

I finally got the after USPS robbed the first box.

So, how are these working out for people who bought them? What should I expect?

I'm looking for a 2 1/4 (2 1/2?) inch barrelled 357 SP101 DA only.

A local guy has one for $550.

What was the pre panic price?

thanx

Remember, if it looks too good to be true, it usually is...LOL A co-worker made me an offer I couldn't refuse (dumb-az me). He has always talked about shooting, etc. So I wasn't surprised the other day when he said; "You know, I have a 5 gallon bucket about half full of brass, all new once fired, that I will give you if you will do a real 'professional' job of cleaning my Kimber 45!" He doesn't reload, I kniow because we have talked about it. So, sure enough he showed up at work with a shooting bag and two pistols, a Kimber Classic and a Sig Mosquito. He said he hoped I didn't mind doing the Sig as well. That is when he told me that he had never "really" cleaned the .45, just wiped it down and sometimes ran an oil patch through the bore. I looked at that half full bucket of .45 cases and cringed, several thousand rounds of FMJ (yeah thats what he always buys, he said). Somehow, I think he is getting a bargain, even if I didn't have to do the mosquito as well as the Kimber.

I actually thought about going "old school" and plugging the chamber, standing it vertical and filling it with Mercury... (Used to do that, dates me doesn't it!).

But, it is the 21st Century...Is Boretech Eliminator still the best to remove copper fouling? I need help here... I am glad I can still laugh at myswelf...