Proofing a re-barrel?

[saands]

So ... I return to the saga of my rebarrel project. We're getting pretty proficient at this threading business and will soon be diving into the actual assembly of some '38 Turk actions into modern chambers. My question today is this:

Should a proof cartridge be fired in any re-chambered rifle? The first one will be a "simple" 243Win, so I'm not too concerned, but eventually, I will be building a .300 Win Mag and I would think it wise to test such a project remotely before planting one's face behind the sights and letting her rip ;)

If a proof cartridge is warranted, where does one obtain such an item (or the recipe to make such an item).

I did a search but it came up with a lot of references to proof marks on C&R rifles :(

Thanks in advance,
Saands

[4 Eyed Six Shooter]

Saands, If you have done your homework and made sure the action is hard enough, your headspace is correct, the bolt lugs and lugs in the reciever are good, and you have checked the receiver and bolt for cracks, you should not need to proof test with a proof load. Myself and every other gunsmith that I know test fire with full power factory loads only. Just double check all of the above items and be sure that what ever action you are using is suitable for the cartridge that you have picked.
If everything is right, the only way someone is going to blow up the action is if they are loading too hot, using the wrong powder or have a seriously underloaded cartridge.
If you have a question about receiver hardness have it Rockwell hardness tested and re hardned if necessary.
Good Shooting and Happy New Year-John K

[saands]

John,
The only thing that I hadn't planned on testing was the hardness. What should the hardness of the receiver be? I have a friend with the equipment to test them. As a check I will probably also test a German K98k and a Yugo M48 that are staying in 8x57 and compare their readings to the Turk actions that are getting converted. Since all the stress is happening at the frong of the receiver, do you recommend testing on the outer face of the receiver in the viscinity of the threads? I am assuming that the whole receiver would have been treated at the same time and therefore be the same hardness, is this true? Are there areas of surface treatment (case hardening) that should be avoided as test zones?

Thanks so much for your help!
Saands

[4 Eyed Six Shooter]

Saands,
There are so many variables. If you don't have it yet, get a copy of "The Mauser Bolt Actions" By Jerry Kuhnhausen. You can get it from Brownells (www.brownells.com) or Midway USA (www.midwayusa.com)
This book is the bible of Mauser rifle gunsmithing and has much useful info.
Myself, I stay away from actions made during the second world war, and test by using a scribe on the bottom of the action. If the action is hard enough, the scribe will not mark a line in the action. Not very scientific, and it still does not tell you if the action is too hard. I send out any action that is to be used with a high pressure cartridge to be tested and hardned if necessary. Standard pressure (30/06) type cartridges just get the scratch test. Read Kuhnhausen's book and decide for yourself.
Happy New Year-John K