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CD1
February 13, 2001, 12:03 PM
I got a Hoyt Havoc yesterday. The local hunting shop had Hoyt bows on sale for 50% off. I almost wrecked my truck trying to turn into the parking lot when I saw the sign. This makes me very happy, can't wait to shoot it. Im thinking about switching to carbon arrows this year..anybody out there using them now? any info you could give me on them would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Robert the41MagFan
February 13, 2001, 01:07 PM
Although many people use carbon fiber arrows to hunt with, they are very TOXIC. About fifteen years ago a had a strand of carbon fiber that got into my leg (use to race sail boats made from carbon fiber). The toxicity was so great that the doctors had to cut a gulf ball size chunk of meat out of me in order to get rid of the reaction.

Also when hunting, with every shot you take, arrows disappear, bend and break. Using carbon arrows can become a very expensive habit. I've stuck to the aluminum shafts for hunting and use Easton carbon shafts just for targets.

Nice bow by the way. Congratulations!

Robert

CD1
February 13, 2001, 09:46 PM
Robert,

How much speed/point of impact difference do you see between your carbon and aluminum shafts?

Robert the41MagFan
February 13, 2001, 10:23 PM
Shoot on the wimpy side of bows since I don't practice very often anymore. Only use a 65 pound bow, cam/wheel from Jennings. With 2315 Easton Gamegetters, 28 3/4 inch arrow, speed is about 268 feet per second. That is my hunting arrows and drop between 20 and 30 yards is maybe 2 to 3 inches. When I switch to Easton A/C/C Superlights, think the number is 3-49, speed jumps to 298 feet per second. Arrow stays at zero to one inch drop from 20 to 30 yards. The drop from the aluminum shafts at well within the margin of error. I just use a one pin pendulum sight. Been using one pin for years and it has never failed me.

Robert

headroom
February 14, 2001, 01:38 AM
i kind of like the carbons a little bit. The only thing i can think to say about them is they get weaker over time, from shooting.

Keith J
February 14, 2001, 02:24 AM
Its really bad on the life. Anything hard is bad and the arrows can and will fail. When they do, it isn't pretty as it splinters.

I've used them but only for hunting. Much better to practice with aluminums and just shoot the carbons to verify zero.

Once they warp, they are toast. If you ever ding (near Robin Hoods), they also are toast.

MFH
February 14, 2001, 01:18 PM
I get the best penetration using carbon. They do tend to be a little more finicky to set up, however, and the fletching clearance isn't much. You can avoid that by using the ICS type carbon. If cost is not a big problem, ACC's are great..as long as you dont lose them.:)
MFH

CD1
February 14, 2001, 02:37 PM
Some of the posts hear mention warpage. I had always heard (apprently eroniously) that one of the good things about carbon arrows is that they are either straight or broken...no in betweens. Is that not the case?

handgun357
February 14, 2001, 04:08 PM
Up to 25 yds. my aluminum arrows go where I want them to go.
I have not tried carbon, but they sound interesting.
I probably won't try them, just because if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Happy Shooting All............

Jeremae
February 14, 2001, 05:50 PM
Rather than post a new topic and since my questions are on topic for this:

I have not bow hunted since 77, when I left Ohio, but am growing more and more interested here in Texas.

I intend at least 6 months training on the lines of my firearms practice (I shoot at least 4 days a week and probably average more like 6 days with long guns being used at least once/twice a week).

How much money should I spend on equipment? What are best Bang for the Buck bows? I know there has been major changes in archery equipment, so what are the most useful new features I should insist on?

I have 5 young children and already feel guilty spending on my hobbies but luckily I acquired most of my firearms prior to marriage and they are relatively low maintanence (dollar wise, I took a gunsmithing course as teenager and do most of my own repair/mod work myself).

Robert the41MagFan
February 14, 2001, 06:09 PM
Front and center is fit. The bow just has to fit and that is probably the most expensive part of this sport. Once you have been fitted with the proper bow draw length (arrow length, peeps and sights) and a few tips from the trade (tools!), you should be on your own. Best thing is to be fitted by a pro and he gets paid by your patronage. So in other words, go to a bow specific pro shop, let them properly fit you and buy your equipment from them the first time. That does not come cheap, cost on a package can be as high as 30% more than mailorder/do-it-yourself. Cost should be roughly $500 to $700 for a start up. Fun sport and well worth the investment.

Five kids! Never figured out what makes babies. LOL :)
Big families are beautiful! Congratulations!

Robert

CD1
February 14, 2001, 10:40 PM
Jeremae,

Go down to the local bow shop. Just let them know exactly what you told us and they should be able to help out big time. When I first got into bow hunting, I bought a used bow (nice one no less) for 150 bucks. Set up and everything I was out the door for under 300 bucks. Speed is nice, but remember that indians killed deer hundreds of years ago with a stick and string. Speed is nice but it costs money, and can sometimes be noisy (read that as counterproductive). I would steer clear of Wal Mart type set ups, the people there just don't have the expertise to address all the issues properly. The final analysis is that you can spend as much as you want to on a bow setup, but you dont HAVE to blow a bunch of $$. For a new setup with a nice bow Id say you could spend 250 for the bow (new), 75 for arrows, 35 for the arrow rest, 45 for sights, 30 bucks for broadheads, maybe a few extra's and you leave for under 400 bucks with a brand new setup. The cost can go up steeply from there depending on which bow you choose. Good luck and let us know if you have anymore questions.