View Full Version : Best Source Pietta .36 Caliber Conicals & Balls:
January 10, 2013, 04:02 PM
I would appreciate the forum's input on this.
I don't want to cook lead anymore....
What are good charges for these projectiles????
January 10, 2013, 04:14 PM
If I don't cast for a certain caliber I use this person from the castboolit website.
January 10, 2013, 04:38 PM
Cool, got a contact e-mail for him????
January 10, 2013, 04:43 PM
No I send him a PM when I need something. You may want to join castboolits its a great site.
January 10, 2013, 05:01 PM
Looks like I will be joining up!!!!
What's a good load for a .36 with a 5.5" barrel????
IIRC, I used to shoot 20 grains under a 95 grain ball, but I don't recall my conical loads....
January 10, 2013, 08:13 PM
20 grains with a conical is a good load.
January 10, 2013, 08:15 PM
What are the .36 conicals and balls weighing in at???
January 10, 2013, 08:45 PM
I second the recommendation for Jeff (MassCaster).
He's a great guy. I get my round balls from him too.:)
January 10, 2013, 09:02 PM
My .36 conicals are 130 grain.
January 11, 2013, 04:02 PM
January 12, 2013, 07:12 PM
So, 20 grains with a 130gr conical???
What about a 95gr ball???
January 12, 2013, 08:06 PM
I use 25 with a ball. Most use 20.
January 13, 2013, 05:44 AM
My Colt 2nd generation 1851 Navy takes a maximum of 27 grains of Goex FFFG with a .380 inch diameter ball weighing about 90 grains. That's without a felt wad.
This is as much as I can get into the Colt.
My two Remington .36s, one made by Pietta and the other by Uberti, each max out on about 30 grains.
In my Colt 1851 I typically use 22 to 24 grains of Goex FFFG black powder, with lubricated wad and .380 inch ball. This is also a good load in the Remingtons.
The lightest I'll go is 20 grains, which I use for target shooting.
The Remingtons have fairly short rammers, so any less than 20 grains and I can't be assured that I'm shoving the ball down far enough to be snug against the powder. This is with a lubricated felt wad, too.
In my shooting kit I have a little plug of 5/16" hardwood dowel that I can put on top of the ball and use the rammer against. This ensures that the rammer will apply enough pressure to seat the ball firmly on the powder.
Leaving a space between ball and powder creates a dangerous condition that can raise pressures considerably.
In my 1862 Colt made by Pietta, I use a maximum of 18 grains. Its chambers have much less capacity than the Navy, because it's built on the 1849 frame made for .31 caliber.
I haven't found a conical bullet as accurate as the ball in my .36 revolvers. I've tried a number of different ones, including the Lee of both .375 and .380 diameter, and the Buffalo Bullet.
The .44-caliber Lee bullet is accurate in my .44s, but for some reason not nearly so in my .36s. It would be interesting if Lee made a .31 conical based on the same design, to see whether the caliber or design may be the problem in the smaller calibers.
I generally avoid loading conical bullets; not as accurate, slower to load, more expensive to buy (if you don't cast your own) and generally more bother. Velocity is lower too, because you must use less powder to make room for the conical bullet's greater volume in the chamber.
I like the .36 caliber. I wish someone would produce a stainless steel target .36 of Remington design, with modern sights and fairly deep rifling with gain twist. It would be a great shooter and small game gun.
I have an Uberti-made Remington target revolver in .36 caliber, made in 1973, but the rifling is so shallow that it's not nearly as accurate as my stock Uberti-made Remington .44 revolver.
I'd be tempted to rebarrel the Remington .36 target model, but it's a fairly rare bird so I'm keeping it original. There are plenty of Remington .44s with modern, target sights, but you very rarely see a .36-caliber of such configuration.
So yeah ... start with 22 grains of FFFG with a .380" diameter ball and felt wad twixt powder and ball. See how that works for you.
January 13, 2013, 06:25 PM
Thank you for the informative post. I am puzzled by something you wrote though. You mention the 1862 Colt by Pietta being made in the smaller 1849 .31 caliber frame.
I bought a 1862 Colt Police by Pietta that is six-shot, whereas the genuine police models are a much smaller five shot model.
Pietta describes it as made on the 1851 navy frame????:confused:
January 13, 2013, 07:48 PM
The Uberti is made on the 49 frame. Pietta is made on the 51 frame, pretty sure it always has been.
January 14, 2013, 04:50 AM
The Gun Works lists Buffalo .36 Pistol Bullets under Shooting Supplies - .375 diameter:
Bullets - Revolver - .36 Cal - .375 Dia - 125 Gr - RN-SB
The only conical revolver bullet commercially manufactured. These bullets are made of pure lead with a round nose to fit the loading lever of most black powder revolvers. The heel of the bullet is reduced to aid in concentric loading of the revolver cylinder. Prelubricated with an all-natural lubricant. Packed 50 bullets per box. .36 caliber, .375 diameter, 125 grain - Round Nose - Shallow Base.
January 14, 2013, 10:59 AM
Thank you guys. Sorry for all the questions, but I appreciate your insight and experiences greatly...
January 23, 2013, 06:30 PM
What would a good FFFg charge be under a .26 caliber 125 grain conical in a steel frame Navy????
March 11, 2013, 06:23 AM
so far i am using .457 round balls and 20 grain BP and filler (coffee) .
For using conicals is it mandatory to reduce the BP ?
What is your experience?
March 11, 2013, 09:24 AM
Bet you all get a kick out of this. It is a true .36 cal I use for most serious
Target shooting revolver matches at Friendship.
March 11, 2013, 12:29 PM
Wouldn't be legal in SASS though would it????
I shot police competitions with a 1927 Colt .45 Auto that had only a modified 90° firing pin stop radii and 14.5 lbs recoil spring and shot circles around guys with Les Baers, etc...
March 11, 2013, 01:05 PM
No, I don't shoot SASS. Just NMLRA matches. This will shoot dime size groups
At 50yds from a Ramson rest.
March 11, 2013, 03:08 PM
Forgive my ignorance, but what is NMLRA????
March 11, 2013, 03:13 PM
What's your best load/projectile data thus far????
March 11, 2013, 08:46 PM
NMLRA is the National Muzzleloading Rifle Association founded in 1933.
Everybody should be a member. We shoot everything from shotgun, trap
And skeet, sporting clays, long range 1,000 yds. Offhand rifle, single shot
Pistol, revolver. Red Dot sight matches, bench pistol, 100 yd pistol.
You name it. These are held on our 600,acre range located in Friendship In.
I been going for over 20 yrs. Link to it http://www.nmlra.org/
March 12, 2013, 02:46 PM
Here is what I use for the "As Issue" matches. Euroarms 44
Aged to perfection
March 13, 2013, 07:39 PM
That sure looks the part!
March 13, 2013, 08:56 PM
Won 1st place at the Nationals last year in the 25 yd match. Don't know how
I do it. I'm 70. First 5 shots you could cover with the bottom of a pop can .
All in the 10 ring. This pistol does have the faster twist barrel. Euroarms made
A 1-28 twist and a 1-18 twist. I shoot 20 grs Swiss no. 2 powder a .454 ball
With creame of wheat for the filler. CCI no. 11 standard caps. Special secret
Lube over the balls I buy from a secret place in Indiana. It does have beeswax
In it made by bees bred just for this purpose. I'm serious!!
March 13, 2013, 11:27 PM
Yes but that specially bred beeswax is worthless if the bees have been in alfalfa...
March 15, 2013, 10:46 PM
I use Cream of Wheat filler with my own homebrewed lube pill made by melting yellow Crisco and beeswax together, letting it cool, and then cutting out little wads with an empty .45 case. Works great!
March 18, 2013, 08:10 PM
I am funny....
When I was shooting SASS near Fresno I blasted over 1500 rounds out of my Pietta 1858 and never used a wad or butter/lube/Crisco and never had any issues. I would fire a complete round before cleaning with Pyrodex P.
Guess I didn't know better????
March 19, 2013, 02:14 AM
Sounds like lub wad or pill or over the ball would work better than a dry firing pistol. I don't know once I fire a couple cyclinders without lub the gun dries out and don't want to work right.:confused:
March 19, 2013, 10:04 AM
All I ever used was Wurth CU-1100 Anti-Seize Paste on the arbor....nothing else but a little gun oil between events...
March 26, 2013, 02:12 AM
I grew up in the gun works. Joe has lots of original stuff he keeps stashed in the vault including some really neat molds. I've been trying to get an original .32 conical mold off him for 20 years. :mad:
You guys make me want something bigger. I have plenty cap and ball singles but my only revolver is a CVA Wells Fargo .32 I got when I was 7. Shoots like a champ! Super accurate and lots of fun.
March 26, 2013, 10:48 AM
I think the primary function of the lube is to keep the black powder fouling soft allowing you to shoot longer and more easily between cleanings.
If you are cleaning after each course of fire it's probably not necessary.
It might help cut down on leading.
It probably helps protect against chain fires, though I suspect the tight-fitting ball does most of the work there.
Period pistol cartridges had lubed bullets but it was a greasy wax in the bullets grease grooves. They did not cover the bullets over with lube nor use a wad.
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