View Full Version : browning bps high gloss walnut finish???
November 11, 2012, 08:11 PM
im new here and hope i asked this question on the group of forums. but i bought a used browning bps 10 ga. as a christmas gift for my dad. the blueing is in ok shape but its a high gloss walnut is dinged up. i was planning on stripping the finish of the forend and stock and sanding them down as best as i could without taking to much meat from it. but the problem that im gunna get into is restaining and clear coating it? my dad is a cabnetry maker and i have the supplys to get the job done but would like it to look close to new finish as i can. i was wondering if anybody new what stain looks close to wat it had and the clear coat. i guess id prolly have to spray it but not sure how to make it look like glass? any information will help. thanks.
November 13, 2012, 09:52 AM
First, look under the butt plate/pad, to see if the observed finish is the real wood, or a faux finish. :eek:
If it's a faux finish, I would advise leaving the stock alone, other than cleaning/waxing.
If the finish isn't faux, FWIW, the Browning standard finish is an epoxy, and can be a BEAR to remove - I would suggest an epoxy-effective chemical stripper like CitriStrip instead of sanding, then raising the dent with a hot iron held on the depressed area with a wet cloth between (for steam).
That's only if wood fibers are not broken, which would indicate the need for a filler made from a mixture of wood glus & gunstock sawdust taken from under the buttplate/pad.
I would only sand the repaired area.
For staining, I use Johnson's MinWax Black Walnut, dried at least overnite before proceeding further.
To replicate the factory finish, a spray-on epoxy finish can be used, if you're confident in your spray painting ability to leave no runs.....................(mist, dry - mist, dry - etc, etc)
November 14, 2012, 12:00 AM
thankyou. i took the but plat off and it apears to me as a epoxy finish. not sure wat a faux finish is? i google it but all i could find is like a finish for plastar and concrete. i talked to a guy at a local gunshop and told me it would jus be easyer to buy new stock and all from numerich. so i checked it out and there pretty salty. more than any ordinary mossberg or remington stock. im undecided if i should attemped it. im far from an expert, and think i got to big of a bit to chew. im gunna see if i can can get some help from a guy at work that has redon his sons 700 bdl. it looks dang close to the original finish. if it was me id buy a synthic stock and forend just becuase its a gun that is gunna be used for goose. but by dad loves the looks of wood and is very carful of keeping them looking nice. " thank for your help and advise. " if i redo it hopefully it turns out ok. if i fail at it ill buy new ones off line.
November 14, 2012, 08:40 AM
I'm sorry - my bad........
A "faux" finish means a false finish, sometimes used by Japanese manufacturers on guns, to make sub-standard wood look like spectacular Black Walnut.
It's usually done artistically by the application of a base color coat, then laying in a woodgrain pattern in a darker contrasting color - similar to what's seen in high-grade presentation wood.
Sometimes, it's done via a hydrographic dipping process (think: camo dip, but in woodgrain)
The results are then covered/finished with a clear epoxy (spray).
I found this out the hard way - by sanding such a stock for refinishing, breaking through to the blond/white junkwood beneath.
November 14, 2012, 02:47 PM
Some Beretta shotguns have the fake finish on them. Beware.
November 14, 2012, 05:16 PM
After spending much time working with wood and its related finishings i have come to one all encompasing realization...PREP! The amount of time spent sanding will make even a piece of poplar look better than cocobolo done poorly. Hit it with some 120 grit with a vibratory finish sander, working up to 300 or so. Tack cloth and spray with air hose to get all the dust off. You can use an epoxy finish but the process of mixing the epoxy (usually) creates micro bubbles in the material. These can be removed with a heat gun after application but before cure. Epoxy takes pratice, High gloss polyurethane works as well just be sure to wet sand with 400-600 grit and tack cloth between coats with a light coat initially.
To sum it up preparation is the key to finish. If you feel uncomfortable then practice on some scrap before you begin.
Hope it helps!
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