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Palmetto-Pride
July 2, 2012, 07:15 PM
I just wanted to share my experience I had this weekend with my new 300 AAC BLACKOUT 16" shooting it non suppressed.

I was mainly shooting different supersonic ammo to find what groups best, and it was functioning perfectly. Then I decided to try some Gunn 220GR subsonic ammo and I noticed right off that it seemed very week, the report the recoil and very inconsistent. So I made sure that I was seeing the bullets impact the berm and on about the 8th or 9th round things went south no visual bullet impact and a lot of gas coming out the chamber. So I pulled the rear pin removed the bolt and yep no daylight in barrel just as I thought the bullet didn't make it out the muzzle. So my day at the range was over for the 300 AAC. Here comes the warning. It did chamber the next round and had I pulled the trigger again things could have turned out a lot worse. So anyone with a 300 AAC or thinking about building one be very careful shooting Gunn subsonic ammo out of it, make sure you know for certain that the bullet did exit the barrel before you pull the trigger on that next round.

UtopiaTexasG19
July 3, 2012, 06:58 AM
Depending on the set up, system and gas block, some sub-sonic 300 AAC loads will not cycle a AR properly but the initial bullet should shoot out of the barrel no matter what the set up. Is there any way you can chamber the left over rounds individually and check the speed on a chronograph? How much drop were you getting at how many yards?

Palmetto-Pride
July 3, 2012, 08:27 AM
They seemed to have the trajectory of mortar rounds compared to the supersonic ammo I was shooting. Let me say this I was getting great groups with supersonic Hornady 300 whisper Zmax ammo and supersonic Barnes 300 Blackout ammo and with some supersonic Remington UMC ammo it was pretty good. Even though this was subsonic ammo it just didn't seem consistent at all, the rounds were pretty much all over the place and the report on each one seemed very inconsistent. I do have a chronograph but I am not sure I want to even try to use any more in my rifle. I think I will pick up some Remington sub sonic ammo.

BTW I did learn a easy way to remove stuck bullet in the barrel.

I bought a .25" solid aluminum rod from Lowe's and used a Craftsman Auto Hammer to push the bullet out of the barrel. It took 5 seconds max.


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UtopiaTexasG19
July 3, 2012, 09:10 AM
The 220 grain are some very large sub-sonics and you might be able to use lighter subs that would work in your particular rifle. I wish someone sold "multi-packs" of .308 bullets with 7-8 different weights with a 25 count of each weight so those of us that re-load for the 300 AAC could determine what works best in our rifles. As it is buying 100 count boxes of each weight and trying them out to see if there is a sub-sonic limit on a particular Blackout is a real pain but is necessary to see what works and up to what weight. I use H110 for my 300 AAC loads and so far my unit has worked well with many weights from 110gr. to 220 gr. though with the 220's you might as well chuck a rock at the target! :)
PS- What department at Lowe's had the aluminum rods?

Palmetto-Pride
July 3, 2012, 04:28 PM
If you go to the hardware department where they sell screws bolts and all that jazz there is a DIY section that has all kinds of stuff like steel rods, aluminum rods, unit strut, small diamond plated sheet metal, angle iron etc. etc. Same area where they sell door locks. I bought a steel rod and an aluminum rod but I didn't want to use the steel rod only if the aluminum rod wouldn't work.


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Palmetto-Pride
July 3, 2012, 06:35 PM
A couple pics...........

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w155/bojack2575/5dcf2ec3.jpg

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w155/bojack2575/dfdd66f7.jpg

arizona98tj
July 3, 2012, 07:40 PM
Personally, I wouldn't put an aluminum, fiberglass, or wooden rod down the barrel to dislodge a bullet or other obstacle. I've read too many forum comments by people getting AL cleaning rods, etc. jammed in the barrel while trying to use them to dislodge a bullet.

I have (but have never had to use) a steel rod that is wound tip to tip with a layer of half overlapped electrical tape. At the end going first into the barrel, a couple more wraps of tape keeps it perfectly centered in the bore, allowing it to fit down the barrel with just enough clearance. A steel rod won't deform where it contacts the obstacle in the barrel where as a softer material might very well compound the problem. You won't damage your barrel if the rod is sized and wrapped for the barrel diameter....as with any gunsmithing task, don't get careless.

Palmetto-Pride
July 3, 2012, 09:44 PM
I wouldn't have used a cleaning rod either because they are hollow and bend easy, but a solid aluminum rod is totally different tool. Last time I checked aluminum is a lot softer than steel therefore minimizing the chance of scaring the barrel with a steel rod. You can wrap it with all the tape you want, but once you go pounding on it with a hammer I am sure it will make its way thru the tape.

ripnbst
July 3, 2012, 10:18 PM
Yeah, Arizona wrapped in tape or not ditch that steel rod. He made the right decision going aluminum. I don't see how you'd get a rob stuck in a tube with a blockage aside from jamming the rod through the blockage. I don't see anyone hulking out bad enough to jam an AL rod through a bullet.

eldorendo
July 5, 2012, 01:05 PM
Just wondering if the OP called Gunn Ammo and if so, what they said?? Sounds like either the wrong kind of powder or not enough of the right kind of powder. Pretty sure that they're loading on Dillon 1050s.

Palmetto-Pride
July 5, 2012, 09:47 PM
Just wondering if the OP called Gunn Ammo and if so, what they said?? Sounds like either the wrong kind of powder or not enough of the right kind of powder. Pretty sure that they're loading on Dillon 1050s.

I have not called Gunn ammo, but I will tomorrow just to see what they say.


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eldorendo
July 6, 2012, 04:25 PM
Gunn is located about 20 miles from where I live. Old friend of mine runs the place. Ask for Danny.