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ronz
June 15, 2012, 06:58 PM
Want to keep it looking somewhat original but not doing a restore
I’m going to replace the sights do some work on the trigger repaint it and might recrown the barrel and add a mussel break
When done hope to have a nice target rifle for the range with the goal being to be able to keep everything in the black out to 100 yards so a 5”-6” shot group
First thing is to order a new rear sight was thinking about going with a Williams mainly due to its price
Think this one should fit Williams 5D-SMLE Receiver Peep Sight
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/326669/williams-5d-smle-receiver-peep-sight-british-lee-enfield-nos-1-4-and-5-aluminum-black
Already have KG gunkote and cold park so that’s what I will be using for paint and just picked up a blast cabinet so just need to prep it and can do my first paint job

http://i618.photobucket.com/albums/tt263/ronzxcvb/002.jpg

Clark
June 15, 2012, 11:00 PM
I got an Ishapore 308 imported by Gibbs Rifle company, sold by J&G in Shotgun News for $69.95 in 1999.
I cleaned pounds of Cosmoline off the rifle and was criticized for not leaving the stock Cosmoline in place.

I further added a non invasive Federal Arms Corp steel scope mount.

oneoldsap
June 16, 2012, 05:17 AM
If you want your paint to stick , us aluminum oxide for blasting , not glass beads ! Prep is what makes a paint job , and I've done a lot of them .

ronz
June 16, 2012, 11:27 AM
oops I also wiped out the cosmoline
The only aluminum oxide I could find was 70 grit thought that would be too course told them what I was doing they recommended fine silica sand so picked that up. I think it might work for steel but if this works out good next project is a 22 revolver and think that would destroy the aluminum receiver so still need to find some aluminum oxide if I don’t find any 200 grit what would be the highest and lowest you would recommend?

oneoldsap
June 16, 2012, 08:15 PM
70 grit is just what you want . On aluminum you might want to turn down the air pressure to your Cabinet , and keep the piece moving , it'll fluf up real quick !

ronz
July 10, 2012, 01:38 AM
Anyone know what all the torque specs would be?
Also I’m going to bed the action and trigger so won’t need a lot of bedding is there anything that I can get locally? I just don’t know what products will shrink or just not strong enough
I have some original jb weld set time is 20-25 min
I forgot to order the bedding and there isn’t anything else I need now so would hate to have to pay shipping for one item

Btw the paint job turned out pretty good want to keep it looking old so not planning on refinishing the stock at this time unless it needs it after I get done fitting everything
And having some second thoughts about using the Williams sight so might try to make a peep to fit on the rear sight bar

oneoldsap
July 11, 2012, 11:38 AM
If you bring a rifle with a Muzzlebrake to a target shoot , you aren't going to make any friends ! Get yourself a shooting vest with a pad in it , you'll make more friends that way . ;)

ronz
July 11, 2012, 04:20 PM
Didn’t think of that
Don’t plan on shooting competitively but good thing to keep in mind
Especially since now that the kids are grown I have the time and ability to do stuff like that now
just wish I still shot as good as I did 20 years ago
Read that filling the stock with shot can reduce the recoil by up to like 30% so was going to do that first

ronz
July 18, 2012, 05:05 AM
Bedded the trigger assembly turned out pretty good
The receiver bedding is drying now
Still debating about the rear sight think I will make a new peep out of epoxy to get an idea of how much moving the rear sight back 10.5” will help
I would like to keep it looking as original as possible but the goal is accuracy
http://i618.photobucket.com/albums/tt263/ronzxcvb/008.jpg

http://i618.photobucket.com/albums/tt263/ronzxcvb/007.jpg

ronz
July 20, 2012, 01:08 AM
Well got it back together I left it as a tight fit by the first inch or two of the barrel and sanded by the sides of the receiver so it doesn’t make any contact with the wood
It looked good between the forearm and front stock just needed a shim to get the forearm off the rear sight base but not when I tried it with a feeler gauge so more work
The forearm slid in real easy so I’m going to try to pull the end cap off the forearm and shim it so it’s a little tighter before I sand (think tightening it up might be enough)
Also the barrel is touching the nose cap tried adjusting the rear screw but couldn’t get it right figure I should replace the Forend Stud Spring. I could only find them at Numrich but think they are used parts http://www.gunpartscorp.com/catalog/Detail.aspx?pid=489190&catid=5830 and really don’t want to order a spring that’s more compressed than what is in there now anyone know if I can get something at ace or another place locally? or online? If I can’t correct it with a new spring the other options I know about would be to shim the barrel so it has constant pressure on the nose cap or drill out the nose cap anyone have any experience with either method? Still haven’t found the torque specs
http://i618.photobucket.com/albums/tt263/ronzxcvb/004.jpg

Ahab
July 19, 2013, 07:25 AM
Looked at the photo of your 2a with the Williams sight. I cant tell from the photo if it is a Williams 5D-SMLE or 5D-JEMS sight. I have a Ishapore 2A1 that needs a sight. Williams says the 5D-SMLE will fit the rounded receiver of number 1 and 2, however the receivers on the Number 4 and Numbers 1,2 and 2A1 and very different. Are you using a 5D-JEMS? Thanks