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Beagle333
March 3, 2012, 12:16 AM
If I take about .070 or .080 off of the length. That shouldn't really make the cup too short to control cap fragments, should it?

http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/Renegade/hammer-2x.jpg
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/Renegade/DSC03066.jpg

sltm1
March 3, 2012, 12:30 AM
You could just burnish out the intruding lip with a piece of round steel bar and not shorten anything, or just order a new hammer form VTI or the manufacturer. About cap frags...less is more (less containment metal more chance of frags...always wear safety glasses!!)

Pahoo
March 3, 2012, 10:39 AM
You could just burnish out the intruding lip
That would pretty much be my first pass on this fix but I understand you want to make this look as pretty as you can. Then you are going to have to address the alignment problem with the nipple. It's fortunate that you still have most of the cup, in place. The last one I fixed had a large piece broken off. That one I chose to replace and then realign. ..... ;)

I know this M/L is new to you but have you pulled and inspected the lock. You might see something that needs additional attention. ... :cool:


Be Safe !!!

Beagle333
March 3, 2012, 10:59 AM
Yep, you guys are right. My first thought was to draw it down to a clean edge, but burnishing worked just fine. I didn't think I could get in there. Thanks.
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/fixed1.jpg
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/fixed2.jpg

Beagle333
March 3, 2012, 11:09 AM
have you pulled and inspected the lock. You might see something that needs additional attention.

Yes, but I don't really know what I'm looking for. When installed, it looks like it lines up. My only guess is that the previous owner might have not been diligent about cleaning his spent caps out of the cup before dropping the hammer on another one. . . maybe. :confused:
Here's how it lines up, and also a back view. I think it's ready to test. (if it will ever quit raining here.)
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/Renegade/Lock-3.jpg
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/Renegade/renegadelock1.jpg
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/Renegade/renegadelock2.jpg

Pahoo
March 3, 2012, 11:50 AM
Yes, but I don't really know what I'm looking for.
Just a good general inspection and carefully operate the lock in order to understand how it works and look for any problems and clean. Rust has a tendency to creep in on the inside of the plate. Also, those two small machine screws can come loose. To date, all of the old ones I have worked with, look pretty nasty with dirt and rust. Yours looks exceptionally clean. ..... :)

Although not totally traditional, these are good locks. .... ;)


Be Safe !!!

shortwave
March 4, 2012, 10:57 AM
Also, those two small machine screws can come loose.

As usual, an excellent point by Pahoo.

A very small drop of medium strength Locktite(BLUE in color) on screw threads will cure this problem.

Beagle333
March 4, 2012, 10:59 AM
A very small drop of 'BLUE'(medium strength) Locktite on screw threads will cure this problem.

I will do that. They were both backed off a couple of turns when I pulled the lock off.

robhof
March 4, 2012, 12:03 PM
Have a T/C lock like that on my Hawkins and it wasn't hitting the nipple square on one range trip, those screws had gotten loose and were the problem. I tightened them down and the problem was solved, haven't Loc-Tited them yet, just make sure they're tight after every cleaning.