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View Full Version : Mauser 98k loose guard and rear band


bbman25
February 16, 2012, 07:45 PM
I picked up a 1944 dated mauser 98k at the last gun show, and I noticed that the rear band slides foreward along with the mount for the bayonnet, the rear hand guard, and the front guard as well, with minimal effort. My dad and granddad both looked at it and they seem to think there is something missing, or some sort of issue with it. please take a look at the pictures i have attached so you can see exactly what I am talking about. all numbers match with the exception of the bolt assembly and the magazine/trigger guard assembly. Thanks

jimmy lowboy
February 16, 2012, 08:38 PM
Offhand I would say that the stock is cut off at the band,and someone has tried to de-chop? the front end.

JT-AR-MG42
February 16, 2012, 08:55 PM
That is commonly known as a 'dufflebag cut'.

Pretty good indicator that the rifle was brought home by a G.I. in his, you guessed it, dufflebag. The stock needed to be shortened to fit inside and the smart soldier knew this cut would cover up.
I have seen many that were just cut along the stock well to the rear of the rear band.

Not uncommon for them to have a different bolt. Most war trophy's were actually picked out of piles of rifles that had the bolts removed for safety.

The magazine/triggerguard mismatch is kinda curious though.

Maybe more pics are in order.

JT

ottoblotto71
February 16, 2012, 08:58 PM
yes it was definately cut, the bottom part of the stock should run up to the bayo lug.,and thats your problem. from your pics, it looks like a very straight cut, not typically something a hobbiest would do to ''sporterize'' it. maybe it was to be retrofitted for the grenade launcher. who knows. these type changed hands so much from armory to armory, never meant to last or cherish, just a blunt instrument of base humanity. i would investigate a little more if i was you . i am curious as well

Scorch
February 16, 2012, 11:52 PM
If it bothers you, get some good epoxy and some glass mat and lay a strip inside the barrel channel over the joint. It should be invisible from the outside if done right.

madcratebuilder
February 17, 2012, 07:34 AM
It's a duffel cut as described above. You can fix it with two small wood dowels and epoxy resin.

bbman25
February 17, 2012, 02:52 PM
Thanks everyone, that clears things up quite a bit. I'll post some more pictures, just let me know what parts you would like to see. Oh, one more thing, the bayonnet lug doesnt come out of that sleeve, is that a normal thing? I didn't mess with it too much though because I'm not sure how much it can take.
Thanks again, I think we will get to work fixing it in the next couple of days.

JT-AR-MG42
February 17, 2012, 06:04 PM
bb,

If you unscrew the right hand thread cleaning rod, you can then slide the band spring to the rear out from under from the front band.
The front band will then be able to be slid off the bayonet lug and off the barrel over the front sight.

I wouldn't mind seeing a shot of the receiver top and the underside showing the TG/floorplate. The shots you provided show a pretty clean looking 98, lots of blue.
With the action out of the wood, you should be able to see if the handguard and stock are numbered to the gun also.

JT

bbman25
February 18, 2012, 12:41 PM
JT- The front band still will not separate from the lug, it seems like it's stuck in there pretty good.

Here is a few pictures, I think I need to put them on in 2 separate messages.
The first one is the view of the reciever, second is of the rear of the bolt with the numbers, and the third is on the side of the reciever with the numbers.

On the next one the first will be the underside, the second is the number on the wood, and the last one is the number on the barrel.
All numbers are matching, again with the exception of the bolt assembly and magazine/trigger guard assembly.

bbman25
February 18, 2012, 12:44 PM
Next set of pictures.

JT-AR-MG42
February 18, 2012, 11:49 PM
Probably should have mentioned that after removing the band spring, you may need to use a brass drift to tap the band off. Just use the drift on the top edge along the barrel while holding the tip of the bayonet lug/wood section in place with the cut. The brass marks will rub back off. A liitle oil to cut the friction will help also.

It will be trickier yet after you repair the stock cut! Mine all get a fine coat of cosmoline to protect the metal under the stock to to save from constant diss assembly.

I'll second MCBs suggestion of the dowels with epoxy. Take care to line things up when installing the epoxy and use the barreled action to keep things in alignment while the epoxy dries.

Nice photos that re-enforce my opinion of the rifle being a bringback. The matching numbers complete bolt and the stamped TG looks consistent even without a serial.

I'd say you got a very nice 98K that will start the collection off right. Mauser at Oberndorf got spared the bombing and continued to produce quality 98s right up until the surrender. Duffelbag cut rifles don't come along everyday.

JT

bbman25
June 1, 2012, 02:43 AM
if anyone is curious, I finally repaired the mauser. after several failed attempts using dowels, i put it together using the dowels and epoxy, along with cutting a channel into the stock and placing a piece of hardwood flooring in it then loading it up with epoxy. after that i wrapped the cut in mesh and epoxy so that the band would be snug. my freind and i tested it at the range, put 53 rounds through it with no issue.

sorry for not updating sooner, and also i forgot to take pictures of the process, and that band is stuck on there pretty solid, i dont think i will get it apart any time soon.

next on the list.. finding a sight hood, cleaning kit, and buying a new garand.

Browning 35
September 2, 2012, 11:24 AM
Just curious, do you happen to know the name of the epoxy?

I bought a Mauser 98K where the band, band spring, upper handguard and bayonet lug all start to go forward on recoil.

Looks like I'll have to do something similar myself.

JT-AR-MG42
September 4, 2012, 03:49 AM
Welcome!

I would think that most any brand of quality two part epoxy rated for wood will suffice.
Take your time lining things up to make the job a one time deal.
Just remember photos are in order in exchange for any advice.;)

JT