View Full Version : Savage 10FXP Bedding Issue?
January 14, 2012, 06:04 PM
Bouught a .308 Savage 10FXP with Accutrigger on it and the other day at the range another shooter noticed my action was rocking left and right badly in my stock. Disassembled action using two screws and re-installed the action. Noticing now that my barrel appears to be hugging left side of stock near the very front of gun(where stock ends near end of barrel). It is a free-floating barrel. Anyone know if it is bedded correctly or maybe the stock was made? When shooting if I barely twist to the right it straightens up......? Here is a picture but not sure if anyone will be able to tell what I am talking about
January 14, 2012, 06:23 PM
If it shoots well, don't worry about it. If it doesn't, time to relieve the stock a little.
January 14, 2012, 06:30 PM
That's an older model scope package gun, I think, no longer listed by Savage. I think it just has a synthetic thermoplastic stock and not an Accustock. I had one of those on a pre-Accu-anything 10FP, and it was just too flimsy, so I replaced it. There was no bedding, per se, in mined, but just metal inserts in thermoplastic. The stock contact is no surprise if my own is anything to go by.
If the gun shoots well as-is (this is unpredictable, but the stock contact most likely will not help), don't worry about it. If you want to improve on it start looking at aftermarket stocks. Thermoplastic can be bedded with a lot of work and effort (since glues won't adhere to it without special surface treatment and other effort), so getting a more rigid stock in the first place is easier.
January 14, 2012, 06:30 PM
well cant get sub moa out of reloading. have tried varget and rl-15 with 165gr hornady bullets.
January 14, 2012, 06:32 PM
Time for stock work, then. 1 moa was about the limit of my 10FP with original stock, but half moa is easy with a Choate stock I put it on. For hunting I'd tend toward a Bell and Carlson Carbolite.
January 14, 2012, 06:33 PM
also the screw for the trigger guard does it screw in tight or not? mine will not go tight and just turns and turns
January 14, 2012, 07:16 PM
Stripped screw? That don't sound good. Without applying too much force, take your rear (long) screw and run it in and see if it goes tight. If so, your short front screw is stripped- if not, the hole is stripped and that could mean a trip to a machinist/gunsmith for a helicoil, enlargement of hole and bolt.
January 14, 2012, 07:20 PM
yeah when take action out and then try the screw for the trigger guard that stays in when action is out the screw does not go all the way out the hole. it is just short of going all the way through
January 15, 2012, 07:40 AM
It sounds like he has the very same stock my 110 has, if it is, then the front trigger-guard screw is a philips head screw that only attaches the trigger-guard to the stock. Maybe just a little larger screw will fit the bill, BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL TIGHTENING THIS SCREW IN....:eek: it's not hard to strip it.
AS far as the stock and barrel alignment goes, just take a dremmel tool and carefully work it back some, CAUTION: Do not take more than necessary to free the barrel.;)
January 15, 2012, 07:15 PM
Just in case you weren't aware, when setting the action screws place the rifle butt down, and give it decent "bump" down onto the floor before tightening the front action screw first. This makes sure the recoil lug is firmly seated to the rear. Then tighten the rear action screw. Might help your alignment (and accuracy) if you're not doing this, dunno...
January 16, 2012, 01:22 PM
anyone know how much it may cost to get rifle bedded by a gunsmith?
February 6, 2012, 09:55 PM
had a quick question. is it normal for the action screws to be loosining after several range sessions? Gun started shooting a little funny and just checked the screws and they were loose(last time they were snug and could not turn them in anymore) and this time I made about 1/2 turn on front screw and about 3/4 on rear screw. Just curious
February 7, 2012, 07:30 AM
If you are sure they aren't stripped, then when you do the final reassembly, use a drop of locktite blue on the threads. That way you can still get them out without a fire wrench if needed.
February 7, 2012, 10:50 AM
if I use loctite then do not torque them down to the reccomended setting right? Just hand tight?
February 7, 2012, 03:02 PM
Always follow the manufacturer's torque specifications.
February 8, 2012, 12:46 PM
The torque is to pre-load the connection of the gun with the stock, not simply to keep the screws in. If you don't torque it properly, the gun position in the stock may shift around during firing, despite the screws staying put.
February 8, 2012, 01:38 PM
so it is normal to see action screws come loose even if they are torqued down correctly? I guess that is something to check after each range session along with scope screws
February 8, 2012, 01:56 PM
Loctite Blue should be on both, IMHO. One of the last things I want to worry about is a loose screw when putting a trophy buck in the cross-hairs.
February 8, 2012, 03:59 PM
Normal or not, I can't say, but it does happen on a lot of rifles. The Choate varmint stock my 10FP is currently on has special hardened screws that can be torqued over twice as hard as a lot of common specs call for, and they have never come loose. But the stock does need metal between the screw head and the rifle to do that as wood and plastic will give under that much pressure.
February 9, 2012, 07:02 PM
had a very long discussion at range with ex sniper and other reloader and avid shooter and got to looking at my rifle. My rifle with the action screws snug...... the front part of action(about where front of scope stops) rocks back and forth(left and right) badly. The rear of action around where the bolt and trigger are does not appear to be moving. When you grip the gun the stock torques and barrel moves with it in the stock. So our debate was if that is bedding or loose action or what? said they have never seen that before and called savage and said they had not heard of that either. anyone with a savage 10 fxp/axis/ have same issue with factory stock?
February 10, 2012, 03:34 PM
That sounds pretty odd. Seems like something isn't making proper contact. I'm glad you got some experienced hands on it to verify there's a problem.
I can tell you that if you return the rifle to Savage they will repair it and test fire it in their tunnel to make sure it is shooting well. That may be your best option at this point. Unfortunately, I don't think your efforts to find an accuracy load will bear any consistent fruit until you get this resolved.
February 10, 2012, 06:30 PM
turns out had something to do with the bipod. took it off and no movement anywhere and shot decent groups today. am ditching bipod until hunting season comes back around
February 10, 2012, 09:12 PM
Still sounds pretty odd to me. How does your bipod attached to the rifle?
Not a barrel clamp based on the pic in the OP. So it's a sling mount type?
IS it causing pressure on the forearm resulting in the stock getting tweaked?
February 10, 2012, 09:22 PM
Browninghunter I had this very same delima, and it lead to me trading what now is a very fine rifle( mark V CZ) .270 win. The fella that I traded it to found it was twice the shooter without the bipod (Harris). I was a little naive at the time and couldn't figure out why the rifle wouldn't shoot decent, (2 inch groups at one hundred). I can't remember how bad the beating I took on the trade but I remember that I could kick myself , and he still uses it every season!:rolleyes:
February 10, 2012, 09:51 PM
yes sling swivel mounted. I guess it was making stock flex alot. guys at range when I showed them without bipod said that it made no sense why it would have been causing that....who knows will see how it goes next few trips to range:eek:
February 10, 2012, 10:20 PM
My problem was the recoil "jump" that the bipod magnified upon firing. And I know that millions of bipod user's have zero problems, it just seemed that this rifle didn't care to be shot off one.!:(
February 11, 2012, 05:32 PM
The mass of the bipod will cause the front of the stock to slap up and down. It wore a nice rub mark on the underside of my 10FP barrel, so I finally changed stocks. But causing the stock to shift on the gun further back? That makes no sense to me unless the stock is flexing and deforming all the way back there just from the pull on the sling swivel. Without seeing and feeling the thing personally, I can't make a very intelligent guess about it.
One other thing you could try is to take a 10-15lb weight and hang it off the front sling swivel. I set a bag under the magazine well of the gun and then hold the toe of the butt down against the work surface with your hand to make the sling swivel suspend the weight. See if that puts the wiggle back into it. If so, the deformation theory seems verified. The heavier weight should exaggerate it, if that's what's happening.
The other reason I suggest so much weight is that you can pre-cut some shim strips of cardboard to slip between the barrel and stock near the front while the weight is pulling down. Then when you release the weight, the stock springs up against the barrel via the shims, applying pressure to the barrel at that location. This forces the 3rd harmonic vibration node to that particular location. It is what Harold Vaughn calls "O'Connor Bedding" because he thinks he first heard of it in a Jack O"Connor article that endorsed the method. Vaughn says it's the only form of bedding he's ever seen consistently improve non-benchrest rifles.
With wood stocks, the shims are ideally 120° apart, and are moved for and aft to tune the load. Once the sweet spot is found, release agent is put on the barrel (Pam spray works fine) at the shim location, and the shims are saturated with about any brand of slow set epoxy. I like both System Three T-88 and West System G/flex epoxy for this kind of work. The latter may have an edge with a plastic surface because of its slight flexibility. For me, its shelf life has been a little better.
Below is an illustration of the principle. In practice the shims can be any base material that can be glued. Balsa wood is fine. It can also extend all the way under the barrel and up the other side if that proves more convenient to do. I recommend finding an OCW sweet spot by Dan Newberry's method, then tuning the O'Connor bedding to that load, in particular.
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