View Full Version : TC locking lug ?
April 16, 2011, 05:08 PM
I picked up a used TC and a new 6.8spc barrel, and I really have to snap the action closed hard to get the hammer to drop all the way, from what I have found this is not uncommon and the locking lugs could use a little stoning to better fit into the action when closed. Does any one have a pic of exactly where to stone, I believe I know by looking at it, but want to be 101% sure.
April 16, 2011, 05:37 PM
I have a few TC barrels and frames (old style). Just a thought if you have not tried it, remove the forearm and try to close the action. It that does not help, then reinstall the forearm and remove the grip. I have bindings in both of those locations before and once I removed the forearm or the grip I found that the action closed easily.
April 16, 2011, 05:48 PM
If you are refering to TC Contenders, this is more common than you think. The problem is not the frame but the barrel. What I refer to as the locking wedge, is not clearing the bottom of the frame. It's not a hard fix and have had to do about three, in the past. If you will do a search in here, you will see quite a few posts on this particular problem. In one past post, it is suggested that you send it in to the factory and they will make the fix for free. From what you described, it will take more than just a little honing. If indeed you are having a problems with a Contender, get back to us and do a search past posts. ...... :)
Be Safe !!!
April 16, 2011, 06:37 PM
I did search the forums, and although I did find a number of posts about the subject, I didn't find any pics. The reason I'm looking for a pic is to be 1001% sure I understand where the engagement surface of the lug is.
April 16, 2011, 08:01 PM
Well, let's try it this way and you are right about there being limited pictures but the descriptions are good. I wanted you to see the other posts in order for you to get some good information from the other members. Okay, go to this picture. You will see the breech end of a barrel. Attached to the underside of the barrel, is housing that among other things, contains what they call a bolt and it's spring. That's the darker colored piece and it moves in and out to locks the bolt to the frame. When this bolt is retracted, you can open the action. The problem is the bolt face is not clearing the frame or extends to far out. This will give you problems in closing as well as opening the action. I oncce had a barrel that got closed but could not open. Look at your problem barrel and compare this bolt extension to one of your other barrels. Observe it's operation in detail and your will understand the problem. Now, it's up to you on how you are going to correct it. Go slow and only do what it takes to "just" clear the frame. Man, that was harder than doing it myself. ..... :D
Be Safe !!!
February 7, 2012, 10:11 AM
Thank you for your post of six years ago. I just started shooting a 35Rem barrel that I bought about ten years ago at a show but did not shoot. Last week I took it out to the range and after about ten shots, I started to have great difficulty opening the action. After several more shots the hammer would not cock, it seemed that the seat mechanism was slipping out of engagement when I began to draw the hammer back. The problem was intermittent and I believe that the action was not fully closing/locking when the hammer would not stay cocked. Today I will follow your narrative and let you know what results.
Thank you. bob
February 10, 2013, 08:04 AM
Just had a similar problem with an early "non easy open" frame and an octagon 25-35 barrel. I could put that barrel on my "easy open frame ", no problem. I then put my 357 Max barrel on the older frame and perfect fit, no wobble and good lock up every time!:confused: Well then I took the "old" frame completely apart and cleaned it, readjusted the trigger and low and behold no more wobble and solid lockup every time. All this was at home without ammo to really test it. No 25-35 ammo out there, gonna have to go to the loading bench and make some up.:D
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