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View Full Version : Removing scratches in stainless


waltfraz
March 20, 2011, 04:20 PM
I have a revolver that is stainless and has a couple of real light scratches in it from previous owner and I would like to clean them up.T hey are so light you can hardly see them but they bother me.

brickeyee
March 20, 2011, 05:17 PM
I have a revolver that is stainless and has a couple of real light scratches in it from previous owner and I would like to clean them up.T hey are so light you can hardly see them but they bother me.

What is the overall finish?

Brushed?

High polish?

High polish is sometimes easier, but even brushed can be 'cleaned up.'

Polish out the scratches (to high polish), then as needed add new scratches to produce a matching 'brushed' finish.

Non-woven abrasives are your friend.

waltfraz
March 20, 2011, 05:50 PM
It's a dan wesson I would call it a brushed finish,what are woven abrasives?

HiBC
March 20, 2011, 06:25 PM
I would use the 3M scotchbrite type pads,the maroon color.

ClydeFrog
March 20, 2011, 10:04 PM
I had a Ruger GPNY .38spl that got a few small scuffs & scratches from security duty use.
I was advised to get 800/1000/1200 grade auto body type sandpaper. Other forum posts suggested using Flitz or Mothers Chrome-Mag Wheel Polish.

I also read a interesting post about a airline industry mesh that is used to remove nicks & scuffs. That may work too. I'll post the product name if I can get it.

Clyde

waltfraz
March 20, 2011, 10:36 PM
Some one said to use pencil eracer but I don't want to experiment on my gun

brickeyee
March 21, 2011, 02:49 PM
Non-woven abrasives is the more generic name for Scotch-brite pads.

The real 3M ones are usually better, but if you need a number of 'grits' it can gets pricey to get a box of each one.

FrankenMauser
March 22, 2011, 01:13 AM
I also read a interesting post about a airline industry mesh that is used to remove nicks & scuffs. That may work too. I'll post the product name if I can get it.

It's just a mesh version of emery cloth. The 'mesh' design is to slow down the removal of soft metals, and allow a view of the surface while working it. It also resists folding, to prevent creating creases. But... it does not play nicely around sharp edges, corners, or screws, and is harder to maintain a flat profile with. (These attributes are not an issue on aircraft, as it's generally used to blend cracks, nicks, abrasions, and other potential fracture/tear points - where you WANT a rounded profile.)

Normal emery cloth was better for all non-aircraft work I have ever done, as it's snag-free, and easier to prevent 'dishing' the surface with.

tazbigdog
March 23, 2011, 08:49 PM
I like simichrome. Slightly abrasive and yet shines to a mirror finish. Have used it on guns and swords. Good luck! Jeff:D

guy sajer
March 23, 2011, 09:35 PM
Scotchbrite as mentioned above is the best I've found . Make sure you press lightly and go with the existing brushed/"grain" direction .

G. Freeman
March 24, 2011, 01:40 PM
Please take a look at this thread. Read the comments from Birdieshooter.
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=300911

From the info here, I bought some maroon and light gray scuff pads. You can get this from any auto detail supply store. I didn't even buy the Scotchbrite brand (couldn't find them locally); just got the OEM brand (Mirka mirlon, and there's other OEM brands out there).

For light scratch removal, all you need is the light gray. If you have some deeper ones (such as the idiot mark on my 1911), I used the maroon one first, then blend with the light gray.

Follow the grain of the finish. You will be amazed with the results. The resulting finish will be a satin stainless finish just like what you see on the Ruger firearms or the stainless springfield 1911's.