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Scholly
December 21, 2010, 12:36 AM
I have a real brain bender here. I have a Ruger #1 RSI in 3006 that wont shoot right (grin).

I get very stable horizontal accuracy - less then 1” variation @ 100 yards. The Vertical variation is the problem … I get roughly 4 inches of change in a 5 shot group. It is NOT a steady walk up the paper you would expect from a heat problem. A typical grouping goes one shot an inch high from dead center, the next 2 inches below bulls eye, the next 2 inches above bulls eye and the next dead center bulls eye and the final shot will generally place right on top of one of the first four. Initially, I assumed I had a heat / pressure problem so:

The first “fix” I tried was free floating the barrel – same result
The 2nd “fix” was to glass bed the entire forearm – same result
The third “fix” was to ensure the scope mount’s base did not touch the receiver – same result

I had read the Ruger #1 is sensitive to barrel harmonics so I moved to ammunition; I have tried 150, 165, & 180 grain loads from Remington – same results.
I do a lot of reloading and have achieved good accuracy with other fire arms. So I started with bullet variations ranging from 130 through 200 grain (all 5% below max).

Each load sample size was 10 rounds.
I set up 8 sample loads
I set out 8 targets
I fired one shot from each load at the designated target
I repeated the test twice

Same results!

I have replaced the scope and rings (my wife has a 2nd RSI in 243) Same results - the 243 shoots sub MOA with either scope. I even alternated between the the 243 & 3006 to prove it was not a "biological" failure: 243 5 shot groups stayed at an Inch, 3006 stayed at 4 inches.

These same results occur in 70 degrees as well as 10 degrees (North Dakota shooter here). I have run roughly 300 rounds through this Ruger trying to tune it with no success. I have gone to some pretty extreme measures to correct this with No avail. What am I missing here?!?

Clark
December 21, 2010, 12:55 AM
I have had two Ruger #1 .223s that shot well. A 7mm Mag that does well.

But a 270 that averages 2-3" but is inconstant.

I have never been able to figure out why.

Scorch
December 21, 2010, 02:53 AM
Several issues:
1- Bedding. The #1 is a special beast. Bedding a #1 is a special task. You can't just bed it, it has to be relieved in the right spots and tight in the right spots.
2- Barrel. Until 1990, Ruger barrel quality was erratic at best. If it is a post-1990 gun, remember that Ruger likes long throats.
3- Harmonics. Ruger #1 springs, forearm hanger, heavy hammer, and trigger all combine to make it difficult to get one to shoot. Once you have it shooting well, it will be a dream. Until then, it is a nightmare.

Scholly
December 21, 2010, 01:12 PM
Long Throats ... Thanks Scorch, I had not changed bullet seating depth yet. Also, any insight in to where I should "Loosen" up the bedding? I purchased both the 243 and 3006 together in 2001 as a matched set for my wife and I (long life story between then and now :)) .

k in AR
December 21, 2010, 06:32 PM
I got a Ruger #1 in 7x57 at a very good price because it did the same thing. After a little homework I found that the sight rail was slightly loose & would travel vertically, and of course when a scope is mounted this is hard to detect. A little blue locktite and proper torque on the screws & I now have a 1.25 or less MOA rifle 5 shots, slow fire... yes you still have to watch out for the heat with that thin barrel. But it is a hunting rifle and the first shot from a cold barrel is always right on.

Chief Engineer
December 21, 2010, 06:56 PM
Try a rubber "O" ring on the forearm screw.

gew98
December 22, 2010, 01:17 AM
Not ever having had the forearm off my No1... could a fella 'pillar bed' one ?. My No1 is in 45/70 and gives me no issues , but just wondered if pillar bedding may solve his horizontal dispersion.

Ideal Tool
December 22, 2010, 01:57 AM
Hello, some smiths drill & tap set-screw through front of hanger to allow pressure adjustment under barrel..some have access hole running up at angle through forend screw hole. I have a std. wt. 26" brl. in .222 Rem. that will do 1/2-3/4" at 100yds . It seems the bigger calibers can be more sensitive. Also, you might check the quarter rib...mine was way out of wack when screws were loosened.

Scorch
December 22, 2010, 02:55 AM
any insight in to where I should "Loosen" up the bedding?
Several schools of thought:
1- Make sure the forearm does not touch the action. Glass bed the hanger to the forearm, and put two layers of masking tape on the front of the action and glass bed the forearm/action area. When you remove the tape, there will be a consistent gap there.
2- Glass bed the forearm tight to the front of the action, hanger, and the chamber area of the barrel. Free float the rest.
3- Bed the chamber area, use a rubber O-ring under the forearm screw. put rubber tubing around the springs under the forearm.
4- Get an Alexander Henry type forearm and hanger. The angled forearm screw draws the forearm into the action and barrel.

I have used #1 and #2, a friend did #3, all with good results. #4 usually requires new parts, so a lot of people avoid it.

tkofoid
December 22, 2010, 06:59 AM
There is an accurizer for the #1. It's called 'HICKS',,I beleive. EABCO, out of Alexandria,mn caries them. Go to the eabco.com website for a look. Years ago I bought and sold a #1 that would not shoot.