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4T4MAG
December 1, 2010, 03:50 PM
I thought I would give Barnes CR10 copper bore cleaning a try. I have been cleaning and cleaning and cleaning for hours and hours. Everytime I would use a new patch and it would come out of my 7.5" stainless bbl blue. I did this like 50 times. It kept comming out blue which is showing signs of copper fouling. Finally I realized that the patch when soak with CR10 when afixed to the brass jag I was using would turn blue even before I would run it through the bbl. So, the brass jag was causing the CR10 to trun blue. Has anyone else had this or similar problems with CR10?

bassfishindoc
December 1, 2010, 04:56 PM
you will find that problem with any and all copper removers. Copper is a component of brass so when the copper cleaner contacts your brass jag it dissolves some of the copper in it just like it does to copper fouling in your barrel, and causes you to get blue on your patches. In order to remedy this situation you need to get jags made of another material such as stainless steel, drelin, or some other not copper/brass material, that way you can see if you have truly removed all the copper in your barrel. Also, if you use a brass wire brush to apply the copper remover it will also cause the patch to turn blue, and brass cleaning rods or brass fittings on cleaning rods can cause the patches to be blue as well.

WESHOOT2
December 2, 2010, 09:13 AM
I buy properly sized wooden dowels at the local hardware and cut them to length.

DBR
December 3, 2010, 12:49 AM
Get some KG 12:
http://www.kgcoatings.com/index.php?p=product&id=5&parent=4

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=144092

Best used with Brownells nylon brushes.

Use your old cleaners that turn blue to see that all of the copper is gone (KG 12 just comes out black).

wogpotter
December 3, 2010, 09:18 AM
Its normal if you use brass fittings, or a brass rod. Even brass brushes will give a false read. I had exactly the same problem with Sweets 7.62, another aggressive bore cleaner with ammonia.
I switched to a stainless steel rod & nylon or aluminum jags & a brush with nylon bristles & a non brass core & it is fine now.

wogpotter
December 3, 2010, 09:20 AM
Get some KG 12:
That or M-Pro 7 are going to be my cleaner of choice from now on. How do you like the KG-12? is it good on oil, varnish wood & synthetic stock materials?
(sorry for the hijack, no-one else will admit to using the stuff):D

Unclenick
December 3, 2010, 12:54 PM
KG-12 has lots of copper eating capacity. The only limitation is it just turns a bit browner as it eats copper, so you have no clear color indication to tell when you are done. I've used it with a borescope for that reason. It has a little bit of ammonia in it.

Mainly I've been using Boretech Eliminator, which is virtually odorless (my wife can't complain of fumes wafting up from the basement) acts very fast and achieves intense cobalt blue very quickly. I've tried about every cleaner made and have settled on the Boretech product. Read the reviews on Midway and you'll see similar experiences posted by others.

Apropos of the OP, Boretech now offers coated jags (Midway and Sinclair have them, among others) that don't turn blue. Most copper solvents do a little of that, but it's bluer with Boretech, so their customers must have been asking for it. Midway also sells nickel-plated brass jags that should be fine. Plastic jags like Hoppe's are fine with the chemicals, too.

If I have a lot of carbon to remove, I soak in Gunzilla CLP. It turns hard carbon into sludge that is easily patched out.

DBR
December 3, 2010, 02:59 PM
I use both KG 12 and Boretech Eliminator. The KG 12 is much more aggressive on copper removal. The Boretech is my first pass to get the carbon out and see if copper is present. If I get color then I brush ten strokes with KG 12 on a nylon brush and let it sit for about ten minutes followed by a couple of dry patches. I finish with a couple of patches of Boretech. Usually no color shows and I'm done. If color shows I repeat the sequence. It is very rare to have to do a repeat.

I use a wet patch of Eezox for bore protection. CLP also works well. If the gun is to be used in a couple of weeks or less I follow with a dry patch if not I leave it wet.

wogpotter
December 3, 2010, 05:06 PM
Thanks folks.
*end hijack*:D