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Bill Daniel
August 17, 2010, 07:11 PM
I put a Crimson Trace on my wifes Kimber 45 and it functions well but part of the laser beam is blocked by the right side extension of the slide release. Can this be modified safely to allow the full beam to mark the target.
Thanks,
Bill Daniel

LaserSpot
August 17, 2010, 08:42 PM
On mine, just the edge of the beam hits the pin; the laser dot isn't dimmed. You could modify the slide stop, but then you would need to make it look nice and match the finish. Is the gun stainless or blued?

The end is rounded to make it easier to reinsert; it sticks out a bit so you can push on it. It wouldn't hurt to flatten the end a little. Do you have tools?

Hunter Customs
August 17, 2010, 10:35 PM
http://www.huntercustoms.com/images/07232008a.jpg

The slide stop pin in your gun can be modified like the one in this picture.
The custom gun in the picture has the pins regulated and polished.
When regulating the slide stop pin it's shortened a considerable amount but the original radius is maintained on the end of the pin.
Regards
Bob Hunter
www.huntercustoms.com

LaserSpot
August 17, 2010, 11:16 PM
When regulating the slide stop pin it's shortened a considerable amount but the original radius is maintained on the end of the pin.Doesn't maintaining the original radius reduce the pin-to-frame contact area? I would worry about battering the hole in the frame if you let the slide slam empty; not a problem with a steel frame? What would you recommend if the Kimber has an aluminum frame?

jborushko
August 18, 2010, 10:15 AM
yep... hit it with a file till its not hittin the laser beam... slide stops are cheap if you bugger it up too much.

the rounded end does JUST make it easier to insert

i'd file it down enough the round the edges as much as you can with out having the taper go down into the slide


???how far out from the frame is the pin sitting out????

the lasers on my 1911s also hit the pin, but it hasnt been enough to diminish the beam at all... besides the laser is refence shooting anyway because you can not completely align the beam with the barrel center...

al56
August 18, 2010, 03:25 PM
Here is a pic of how Kimber did it.

http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb262/armchairal/Picture72.jpg

and you can see how much room you have to play/file it down

http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb262/armchairal/Picture73.jpg

Hunter Customs
August 18, 2010, 05:03 PM
"Doesn't maintaining the original radius reduce the pin-to-frame contact area? I would worry about battering the hole in the frame if you let the slide slam empty; not a problem with a steel frame? What would you recommend if the Kimber has an aluminum frame?"

No, radiusing the end of a regulated pin does not reduce the contact area the pin has with the frame.
This is the reason I choose the regulated pin over cutting the pin short and countersinking the hole like the method used in the picture of the Kimber.
Cutting the pin short and countersinking the hole in the frame does weaken the frame, even a steel frame can and will show battering using this method.
Regards
Bob Hunter
www.huntercustoms.com

LaserSpot
August 18, 2010, 06:01 PM
No, radiusing the end of a regulated pin does not reduce the contact area the pin has with the frame.
This is the reason I choose the regulated pin over cutting the pin short and countersinking the hole like the method used in the picture of the Kimber.
Cutting the pin short and countersinking the hole in the frame does weaken the frame, even a steel frame can and will show battering using this method.Yeah, I don't like the way Kimber did that, especially because that model has an Aluminum frame. The pin also looks like it has a sharp edge and would be difficult to reinsert. At least the frame doesn't look too thin at the point.

I couldn't tell from your pic, but it looked like the radius extends into the frame. I'm sure it's nothing to worry about with steel.

al56
August 18, 2010, 06:31 PM
Bob Hunter
if your asking me this

"Doesn't maintaining the original radius reduce the pin-to-frame contact area? I would worry about battering the hole in the frame if you let the slide slam empty; not a problem with a steel frame? What would you recommend if the Kimber has an aluminum frame?"

All I'm saying is what Kimber has done to there aluminum frame to accommodate for the the crimson trace on the UltraCrimsonCarryII,, the stainless steel UCII is also aluminum frame but the slide pin on the SS is a bit longer but not as thick as the crimson pin,,, not interchangeable.

Al

LaserSpot
August 18, 2010, 07:42 PM
All I'm saying is what Kimber has done to there aluminum frame to accommodate for the the crimson trace on the UltraCrimsonCarryII,, the stainless steel UCII is also aluminum frame but the slide pin on the SS is a bit longer but not as thick as the crimson pin,,, not interchangeable.They actually use a larger diameter pin on the recessed models? I don't think the recessed pin is intended to accommodate the laser. This one is shown with CT grips:

http://www.kimberamerica.com/products/pistols/ultracarry/
http://www.kimberamerica.com/images/products/pistols/ultra_carry/section_ultracarry.jpg

Hunter Customs
August 18, 2010, 10:16 PM
al56,
No I was not asking you a question. I was quoting the question LaserSpot ask me and answered his question.
Regards
Bob Hunter
www.huntercustoms.com

al56
August 20, 2010, 09:01 AM
When I had both my UCCII and the USCII the slide pin were not interchangeable at least for the two I had. As for the shorter pin on the crimson carry I just assumed that kimber designed it that way for the laser, the only reason I thought that is that the stainless pin was longer. So you may be right LaserSpot.
As I'm writing this I pulled the slide pins from my SA.45 and the crimson carry and was able to swap them with no problem,,, so now I don't what to think.
Al