View Full Version : Bead Blasting Advise
January 11, 2010, 03:07 AM
Hello All, I need some input. I'm getting ready to blast the blueing off my 1911 slide. Question at hand is what's a good media to use and air pressure settings.:confused: Thanks for the help.
January 11, 2010, 03:20 AM
This will remove your bluing. http://shop.wmbarr.com/store/images/document/Rustaid%20(BSNX101.5)%201-22-09.pdf
Finish/texture is up to you from there.
January 11, 2010, 01:10 PM
Unless you plan on putting a matte finish on the slide, do not blast it. Most quality reblue work is preceded by hand polishing with wet/dry silicon carbide paper, starting at 150 grit and working up to 400 grit.
January 11, 2010, 01:37 PM
easy way is Evpo-Rust found locally. You'd still need to either polish or bead blast for a matte finish prior to re-bluing.
January 11, 2010, 01:48 PM
As others have posted, if you intent is just to remove the blueng in order to reblue, then bead blasting is to extreme. now, given that, the last time I did a shotgun reciever, I used glass beads and that's only because what I had to remove was scaling rust or what I call, deep rooted rust. Most other times I just use a chemical process. Just as effective and more controlable.
Be Safe !!!
January 11, 2010, 09:38 PM
Thank you for all the info, I guess I should have added more info. I plan to Duracoat the slide so I'm looking for that matte finish.
January 11, 2010, 09:51 PM
Glass beads at 60 psi.
January 11, 2010, 09:55 PM
If you are going to blast the blueing, I'd stay away from sand or glass beads and go to something softer and morre conservative perhaps Cobs or Walnut. I too did a Ceramacoat on that shotgun I mentioned that had a pretty bad surface and I had to use black in order to do a good cover job. You still have other options besides blasting.
Be Safe !!!
January 15, 2010, 02:03 AM
January 16, 2010, 01:51 AM
I used 90 grit Aluminum Oxide for years at around 125psi for years but have since started buying Black Beauty to do my Duracoat process with.
I don't have to get as close to the frames with the higher pressure and it takes less time at the cabinet with the higher pressures.
Duracoat takes a better tooth when you Parkerize the gun and bead blasting with glass beads does not roughen the gun enough for a good Park surface to adhere to. It requires a rougher surface.
You can paint them without Parking the guns, and the black beauty works very well for this. I buy it at around $7/ 40 lb bag at Tractor Supply, beats $25/50lb bucket of the ALox for sure. With the black beauty, the finish doesn't take as much of the Duracoat to smooth out.
January 16, 2010, 09:51 AM
cntryboy1289, I use Black Beauty myself for certain projects, but I would never recommend it for a beginner. It's just too aggressive for someone with no experience. OTOH, someone like you knows what to look for and can quickly adjust technique without ruining a part. BB was originally developed to remove heavy scale from larger surfaces.
I have been parkerizing for about 10 years now, and I find aluminum oxide at 90-100 lbs fits most of my needs. I tend to run my park solutions a little on the hot side, too, as I feel I get a better coat when I do.
January 16, 2010, 05:51 PM
Hey falphil just how hot is hot on yer park..
January 17, 2010, 01:25 AM
I like the results I get just short of a rolling boil, so that puts me between 190F and 195F. But this is manganese park, not zinc.
January 18, 2010, 11:21 PM
I have JUST started to park my own stuff. I use Aluminum Oxide 90 grit and it works great however, I would not use it if I was going to do a blued finish.. its a bit rough for blueing.. but it works GREAT when I used it with the manganese park solution I picked up.
Its so simple, I wish I had tried it sooner.
If I was going to blue, I would probably go with glass or corn cob media at a lower pressure.
January 19, 2010, 01:11 PM
I use fine Black Beauty to prep for all bake on finishes . Glass beads only peen they don't cut , they will not give the tooth you need to hold the finish . I should think fine Black Beauty would work fine for Duracoat . If its not smooth enough for you just sand with 400g and put on a second coat .
January 26, 2010, 02:07 AM
Thanks again for all the helpful info, I have 120 grit Alumina Oxide to remove the bluing and I'll be using Duracoat to finish it off. Again Thanks for all the help.
vBulletin® v3.8.7, Copyright ©2000-2013, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.