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View Full Version : Treso Ampco nipples for Uberti Walker


ClemBert
December 2, 2009, 01:04 PM
Can someone please verify the correct nipple to purchase for an Uberti made Walker. I believe the proper number is:

11-50-13 (for a single nipple)
11-50-136 (for six nipples)

I have no idea how to cross reference these numbers to TOTW.

Purvis1
December 2, 2009, 02:12 PM
http://www.possibleshop.com/s-s-nipples-cb.html

This is where I got mine.

mykeal
December 2, 2009, 02:15 PM
You have the right thread but not the right length. The 11-50-13 nipple is 0.10" shorter than the Uberti Walker OEM nipple. The correct Treso part number is 11-50-01; the ToTW catalog number for that is RST-A.

ClemBert
December 2, 2009, 02:24 PM
Mykeal,

Now I'm really confused because of this nipple chart (http://www.possibleshop.com/s-s-nipples-cb.html).

mykeal
December 2, 2009, 09:41 PM
Don't be. The chart's wrong. Maybe because The Possible Shop doesn't stock the Treso 11-50-01. The 11-50-13 fits Thompson/Center rifles and is thus a popular size; the 11-50-01 fits some shotguns and the large frame Colt and Uberti revolvers which are less popular in overall numbers.

As I said the difference is 0.10" in overall length. Here's the specs:
11-50-01: 1/4x28 thread, 0.635" long
11-50-13: 1/4x28 thread, 0.538" long
There's a third 1/4x28 thread Treso nipple, the 11-50-11, which is even shorter, 0.494" long.

In a properly timed Colt revolver the hammer will hit the frame before it hits the nipple, but it will hit the cap. In such a revolver the 11-50-13 nipple will not work. However, our Italian revolvers are rarely timed to such precision, so the hammer will usually strike the nipple before the frame if no cap is present. It's most likely that your revolver will not care whether the 11-50-01 or the 11-50-13 is installed, but the former is the proper one as it better matches the OEM nipple length.

AdmiralB
December 3, 2009, 10:33 PM
The correct Treso part number is 11-50-01; the ToTW catalog number for that is RST-A.

Looks to me like the ToTW pages says RST-WA is "Nipple, 1/4-28 thread, for 1847 Walker revolver, Ampco bronze".

It also says that RST-A is "Nipple, 1/4-28 thread, for standard rifle, #11 cap, Ampco bronze".

FWIW, I bought my Tresos from the Possible Shop; I bought the ones they indicate for Walkers and Dragoons (11-50-136) and they work. I just pulled one out and it measured 0.636 inches.

mykeal
December 4, 2009, 07:36 AM
Yep. You are correct. My notes say the same thing, but my fingers didn't wish to do the extra work of adding the 'W'. Sorry.

Regarding the length:
Yes, the longer nipple (0.636) is the correct one. I had similar problem with a set of Tresos for another gun once - two significantly different lengths for the same Treso part number. The retailer had purchased the nipples in bulk and mispackaged them. To be perfectly honest, I don't know for sure whether the 11-50-01 or the 11-50-13 is longer. It could well be that the ones you got are 'correct' and mine were mislabled. Sad situation.

ClemBert
December 4, 2009, 10:40 AM
Thanks y'all for the feedback! Seems like everytime I want to buy a set of Treso nipples y'all come to my rescue. ;)

Purvis1
December 4, 2009, 12:54 PM
My nipples are inappropriate. I'm so ashamed.:D

fineredmist
December 4, 2009, 01:03 PM
Go to http://www.vtigunparts.com/ and call them. They will give you the straight answer.

arcticap
December 4, 2009, 03:11 PM
My nipples are inappropriate. I'm so ashamed. :D

If it's any consolation, their precise measurements are probably highly dependent on the room temperature! i.e. Hot ---> U u <--- Cold

ClemBert
April 13, 2010, 03:07 PM
Just wanted to revisit this thread one last time for the benefit of those who later do a search for info on Walker nipples. I have a 2009 production Uberti Walker. The factory nipples have the following length measurements:

0.626"
0.631"
0.626"
0.630"
0.627"
0.626"

I purchased the Treso bronze 6 pack nipple set 11-50-136 and received them a week ago. The length measurement on them is 0.636".

At this time I haven't determined whether or not I should consider taking 0.010 off the hammer face with a file.

Does anyone have a good method to determine the amount of contact between the hammer and the nipples (if any)?

kwhi43@kc.rr.com
April 13, 2010, 03:21 PM
Don't forget, wipe the nipple after firing with a damp Q-Tip. Remrmber
a wet nipple is a happy nipple.

wogpotter
April 13, 2010, 04:29 PM
Does anyone have a good method to determine the amount of contact between the hammer and the nipples (if any)?
I don't know if this will work for this application as I've never actually tried it, but in theory at least it ought to. I have used it in other places for similar purposes with a lot of sucess.:rolleyes:

Try several layers of trimmed electrical tape, adding & removing layers as needed till you get an imprint of the nipple's face as the hammer drops on the tape (which will also protect the nipple end?????).
Once you've got the impring right just measure the tape patches with a mic & you're GTG.

arcticap
April 13, 2010, 09:22 PM
At this time I haven't determined whether or not I should consider taking 0.010 off the hammer face with a file.

I'm not advocating to do anything.
But if anything were to be dressed,
why the hammer rather than the nipples? :rolleyes:

ClemBert
April 13, 2010, 10:23 PM
I'm not advocating to do anything.
But if anything were to be dressed,
why the hammer rather than the nipples?

Looks to me that even with the factory nipples the hammer is hitting them. Suppose I can file down six nipples and everytime I replace the nipples file them down or file the hammer face one time and be done forever. However, the nipples are probably softer metal and are more easily replaceable. Suggestions are always welcome.

arcticap
April 14, 2010, 04:40 AM
I don't see why the hammer hitting the nipples is such a big deal as long as there isn't a problem with function.
Any indentations left on the hammer face won't be as deep as having filed it down.
And once anything is filed the surfaces may not mate or hit every cap as flat as they did originally.
It might be better to take a conservative approach and wait to see if the surfaces minutely wear in together or not and then only address any problems if they arise.
Rifle nipples get hit hard each and every time the gun fires and neither the nipples nor the hammer notably suffer.

mykeal
April 14, 2010, 05:43 AM
file the hammer face one time and be done forever.
Including the next time you replace the nipples and they're shorter, and now the hammer won't fire the caps. You're betting a lot on nipples being precision made and replacements being exactly the same as previous ones. They only cost $5 each. Do you get consistent three decimal place precision for $5 each?

Not in today's world.

madcratebuilder
April 14, 2010, 07:35 AM
You may find that the hammer well resist being filed. Most are case hardened and would require a grinder to remove the surface material. Shorten the nipples. Always modify the less expensive part.

Hawg Haggen
April 14, 2010, 07:56 AM
MCB you should know by now that just because something is case colored doesn't mean it's hardened. Most hammers are pretty soft and file easily. I agree with removing metal on the cheapest part tho.

wogpotter
April 14, 2010, 08:40 AM
Always modify the less expensive, & most easily replaced part. :D

Mr Dish
April 26, 2010, 08:24 PM
My wife was reading over my shoulder...she said you should NEVER hit nipples with a hammer.