View Full Version : Rifle breaking scope reticles...
November 29, 2009, 01:31 PM
I have a Stevens Model 200 in .308 Win. I have had this rifle for about four years now, and had the same Tasco scope on it for a long time until the reticle started turning on me. So I bought a BSA Cateye and after about 50 rounds, the reticle in it started to turn. So I then bought a Pentax Gameseeker and mounted it, and after 8 shots it broke.
I have checked my rings, they are mounted true, and the only other thing I can think of is that I shoot from a bipod, and maybe its torquing the rifle enough to break reticles.
I dont know, but deer season is probably going to be a short one for me if I cant find a scope worthy enough.
November 29, 2009, 02:31 PM
I have had the same issues with a Simons ATEC.
Try Leupold and see what happens. Good luck.
November 29, 2009, 02:39 PM
Did you ever think it was the cheap scopes?
I'm surprised that the Pentax went tits up but not the BSA. What type of warranty do they have?
It's not shooting from a bipod or plenty of people would have broken scopes, it could be the mounting. When you mounted the rings did you check to see that they were aligned with each other? I good lapping bar can be used to be sure that the rings are aligned right. Did you lap the rings after mounting and torquing them down?
What type of rings are they? By that I mean are they the type that you twist (rotary dovetail) into the mount or tactical style that are mounted to a picatinny rail? If they are the first type you really need to be sure the rings are aligned with each other and that's where the good lapping bar comes in.
Torquing the screws for the rings and base(s) is also an important issue along with following the Mfg. specs and order of tightening. Also be sure to wipe all surfaces and threads down to remove any oil.
November 29, 2009, 04:05 PM
Torquing the screws for the rings and base(s) is also an important issue along with following the Mfg. specs and order of tightening.
That's my guess. Tighten them like you do lug nuts and to the proper torque.
November 29, 2009, 04:48 PM
Well, if you have noticed I started going up in the quality of the scopes, but the Tasco lasted longer than the Pentax, which really killed my joy. I have checked ring alignment and lapped them before putting on the Pentax. I even upgraded the rings to Leupold PRW rings on Weaver bases before mounting the scope but am still having problems with the scope reticle turning. I have tightened the rings down just like I would a lug pattern to even out the mounting pressures. Trust me, I have been taking all of the precautions that I can think of, especially when spending this kind of money on a scope. I am on limited funds, so getting an over $300+ scope is out of the picture; I am surprised the wife let me spend the $160 on this one.
November 29, 2009, 05:03 PM
It's more than likely a cheap scope issue. These Bushnell Elites (http://swfa.com/Bushnell-3-9x40-Elite-4200-Rifle-Scope-P6910.aspx) are rated at 10,000rds of 375 H&H magnum - and you see a whole bunch better. But before you install it lightly relap the rings true to each other - just to double check. Then torque the rings to 20 inch-pounds. This Bushnell properly installed should last you a lifetime.
EDIT: If you can't swing the Busnell above (what a great deal!) then grab a Weaver K4 (http://swfa.com/Weaver-4x38-Classic-K-Rifle-Scope-P5054.aspx). They ain't easy to break either.
November 29, 2009, 05:26 PM
Hmm, I'd be for sending the Pentax back to whoever their service folks are. I just read that Pentax's are re-labeled Burris's (identical).
Their Made-in-USA scopes have the same design features as Burris. They even look the similar... identical, even. OK, they are really just relabeled Burris scopes, which is not such a bad thing. Their new Lightseeker II features Burris's Posi-Lock reticle locking system (Pentax calls it Perm-Align). Pentax touts its well-known Super Multi Coating system on all lenses. All of Burris' scopes are now fully multicoated. After several years of obvious rebranding, the Burris-built Pentax models are differentiating specs from the Burris models, but I'm not sure if a 42mm objective lens is really that different from a 44mm objective.
November 29, 2009, 05:42 PM
Buy a better brand scope, i.e. VX-II or VX-III Leupold for example. I've been using Leupold scopes for over 45 years on rifles and pistols with no scope problems. Cartridges included .44 Mag (pistol), .308, .30-06, 7mm Mag, and .338 Mag plus several smaller calibers. Even shot a Ruger bolt action rifle in .458 Win Mag with Leupold variable power scope with no problems.
November 29, 2009, 07:50 PM
I just read that Pentax's are re-labeled Burris's (identical).
No longer true. Burris used to make Pentax's top of the line Lightseeker scopes here in the USA. but that is no longer the case. Burris makes their Signature Select series and above scopes here in the USA but outsources their popularly priced Fullfield II line to a company in the Philippines. Probably the same company that now produces Pentax's Lightseeker scopes. Pentax's entry priced Gameseeker scopes come out of China but are exceptional quality for a Chinese scope.
November 30, 2009, 10:54 AM
I would go Leupold. Sometimes you can find a good used Leupold 2-7x33 for $150-160 and they have a great warranty. For around $60-70 they will change the reticle, if it will work in that particular scope. Jim
November 30, 2009, 03:54 PM
Are you using 2 piece base or a 1 piece base? If you are usin 2 piece replace it with a steel 1 piece base.
Please go to http://www.varmintal.com/ashot.htm#Benchrest and scroll down to "Barrel Harmonic Movie" and you will see what the trouble might be.
November 30, 2009, 07:10 PM
I have a .30 cal semi-auto that had a bad habit of blowing up the crosshairs on a "name brand" scope (a cheaper big "B" scope in particular). Couldn't fire 30 rounds and the C'hairs were broke (again).
A local gunsmith who has been in business for 65 years told me that semi-autos are death on cross-hairs because the scope cross-hairs turbulate (rebound front to back). He suggested that I look at an air rifle scope (yes, I said AIR RIFLE) because the internals on air rifle scopes are built heavier than regular rifle scopes. I bought & installed a Leupold VXIII Air Rifle scope and have had no problems ever since. I did that four years ago. Yes it was expensive, but was it really? You pretty much get what you pay for. Factor in the frustration, shipping cost for repairs and embarrassment (at the range) & you'll see what I'm talking about.
December 1, 2009, 03:58 AM
You usually get what you pay for, especially in optics.
Save your pennies, buy a Leuy. My Mini-30 eats cheap scopes.
Leuy solved the prob.
James R. Burke
December 17, 2009, 07:16 PM
I know there are a few really nice scopes out there, but I really like the Leupold line. I have several of them, and never, ever, had a problem. If you do they have a great warranty on them. The only poblem I heard at our gun club was that a guy who shot thousands of really close to max loads sold the scope he was using on his 44 mag. The guy who bought it had a problem with the crosshairs. Sent it in, and they sent him a new one, and it was fast. Like I said that scope was really punished to begin with. So I dont think you could go wrong with a Leupold, and like I said I have a few and never had a problem.
December 19, 2009, 10:43 PM
Since I wont be bidding go to ebay and pick out a nice K4 or K6 depending on what you want to shoot. They never wear out. They run less that $100 often w/ rings.
December 20, 2009, 08:38 AM
The fault is in the scope. BSA stands for "Been Suckered Again". Get your self a decent scope and you won't look back.
In your price range, the best quality scope is the Bushnell 3200 Elite. You can get it for about $199 if you shop around.
December 20, 2009, 04:11 PM
I know that the price is the main issue but trust me, you buy and cry once.
I switched to Leupold which isn't the most expensive scope out there. A March scope will run you about $2300 but only gives you a 5 year warranty (non-transferable).
Leupold is lifetime and is transferable. I also have the higher end Weaver's but mostly Leupolds.
I have a Bushnell Elite 3200 too, better than a comparable Weaver.
You do get what you pay for.
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